Can't find any info on the different jacket and trouser models that can be ordered through the RL MTM program - anyone know? I emailed RL customer service but they did not have the info for me either...rather annoying. I'm interested in the polo "blue" label corneliani-made suits rather than black or purple label. TIA.
Considering a suit from Ralph Lauren MTM program - what models do they offer?
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Can't find any info on the different jacket and trouser models that can be ordered through the RL MTM program - anyone know? I emailed RL customer service but they did not have the info for me either...rather annoying. I'm interested in the polo "blue" label corneliani-made suits rather than black or purple label. TIA.
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They make many models, some quite new. There is the traditional soft-shouldered Polo suit with a 2-button or 3-button front, with or without a ticket pocket. The Bradford has a structured shoulder with a 2-button front. The Garrison is similar to the Bradford but with wide lapels. There is also a model or two with peak lapels. There is a double-breasted suit as well. Trousers may have double forward pleats or flat front. With side adjusters or belt loops. There are 5- and 6-button waistcoats, with or without lapels, and a double-breasted waistcoat.
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I think I am going to go this route as well. They are extending the MTM trunk show pricing for me, since I cannot make it into the shop until next week. I'm also curious as to what to expect. I am doing a 3 piece, and I had hoped for a double breasted peak lapel vest. I have to double check to make sure that is possible. I want a peak lapel two button jacket as well, but it looks like I may have to settle for a model with a ticket pocket. I determined that at this particular price point, it is probably the best route to go. I love the soft shoulders in the Blue Label. Looks amazing.
I was kind of going for this route, but with maybe a higher gorge on the jacket.
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I like double fwd pleated pants with D ring adjusters, and that was not an option with the BB Select program. Also wasn't too confident in even the BB Golden Fleece MTM based upon people's recent experiences and the recalls they had for that line. Checked out Samuelsohn, but it was more than PRL (blue label), and I couldn't keep stretching my budget. Hickey Freeman also wanted something more than even Samuelsohn for a 3 piece, this even during their trunk show.
I was kind of going for this route, but with maybe a higher gorge on the jacket.
I like double fwd pleated pants with D ring adjusters, and that was not an option with the BB Select program. Also wasn't too confident in even the BB Golden Fleece MTM based upon people's recent experiences and the recalls they had for that line. Checked out Samuelsohn, but it was more than PRL (blue label), and I couldn't keep stretching my budget. Hickey Freeman also wanted something more than even Samuelsohn for a 3 piece, this even during their trunk show.
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You want a higher gorge than the one on that jacket?????????
That jacket already has the lapels flying off the shoulder. Any higher of a gorge and the lapels will be higher than the shoulders.
That jacket already has the lapels flying off the shoulder. Any higher of a gorge and the lapels will be higher than the shoulders.
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Probably. I love the classic button stance as opposed to the more modern higher button stance. The lower, more traditional button stance is far more flattering on almost everyone.
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I agree with you on this -- too-high buttoning points are my biggest problem with the cut of "fashionable" suits.
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I was indeed referring to the button stance; excuse my ignorance on terminology. What is everyone's opinion on the linked ensemble? Classic, no?
I think most of the problem with the bulkiness in material with the lapel vest and jacket in the linked photo has to due with the thick, flannel weight fabric.
I think most of the problem with the bulkiness in material with the lapel vest and jacket in the linked photo has to due with the thick, flannel weight fabric.
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I agree, but sometimes the opposite happens and it is too low. I need about 1.5" higher than the 'traditional'.
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I think the Polo I and Polo III are two button fronts, (I) is center vent and (III) is side vent and Polo II and Polo IV are 3 button and center and side vent respectively. You may order the trousers almost any way you want them as far as pleats, non pleats, and side tabs and belt loops are concerned. Have fun with it!
Legal Eagle that is a nice suit! I like the vest very much.
Legal Eagle that is a nice suit! I like the vest very much.
Hmm. Haven't we swapped a bunch of pictures before showing that the higher stance was actually the more traditional, with the lower stance not becoming predominant until the 60's? In any event, the real issue is non-compatibility of a higher buttoning point with lower-rise trousers, both of which are unfortunately simultaneously in fashion at the moment.
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Really hoping that they still offer that vest. That is exactly what I was looking to get for my wedding day.
I am going in to RL next week. I'm a little worried that, being after the official trunk show, they will likely only have their in-house tailors to measure. I suppose that if I did lose weight, the pants and jacket could be taken in. It would be a good month or so before the suit arrived anyways, before final alterations. I plan to have the pants unfinished, with final finishing (cuffing) in store, and the sleeves prepped for button holes, and then marked and finished after fitting.
Also, wondering whether to go the original charcoal or more of a mid grey or lighter grey. I suspect I will get more mileage out of the darker option. I am excited.
**Edit: That vest is still available, or at least a peak lapel double breasted vest is, according to my sales rep.
I am going in to RL next week. I'm a little worried that, being after the official trunk show, they will likely only have their in-house tailors to measure. I suppose that if I did lose weight, the pants and jacket could be taken in. It would be a good month or so before the suit arrived anyways, before final alterations. I plan to have the pants unfinished, with final finishing (cuffing) in store, and the sleeves prepped for button holes, and then marked and finished after fitting.
Also, wondering whether to go the original charcoal or more of a mid grey or lighter grey. I suspect I will get more mileage out of the darker option. I am excited.
**Edit: That vest is still available, or at least a peak lapel double breasted vest is, according to my sales rep.
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All the "Polo" models have natural shoulders. Polo I and Polo III have 2 buttons and Polo II and IV have 3 buttons. Polo III and VI have a more slightly more fitted cut and a ticket pocket. Vents can go either way, and these days almost all off the rack suits and sports coats except for a few Polo I examples have double vents. Polo I used to always have a single vent as standard but not anymore. There are many other styles, such as the Bradford, which has padded and roped shoulders, and the Garrison, which is like the Bradford but with wide lapels. There are Hacking models in at least the Polo IV and Garrison styles which have slanted pockets and a more fitted waist. You'll find a few more suit models as well. Trousers can have a plain front or double forward pleats, with belt loops or button side tabs. Single-breasted waistcoats have a 5 or 6-button front, lapels or no lapels. The double-breasted waistcoat has lapels. There are other options too.
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I don't recall seeing picture of old suits with the higher button stance. Old movies show lower button stances than what is fashionable today. But before the 1960s it also wasn't so common to see a 2-button suit so it's hard to compare. But the old 3-button suits in the 1940s placed the middle button below where the top button on the current 2-button suit is.
I think it depends on what you mean by "old movies." I think the evidence that the high-stance 2-button preceded the lower buttoning point is pretty strong. As is so often my habit, I'll start with a picture of the DoW; this looks pre-Wallice/pre-abdication/pre-Windsor.
But the prince/duke always was willing to wear unusual things, you say. Perhaps this was a personal eccentricity, rather than something the average man would have worn.
Well, I think these guys are about as average as you can get:
https://www.shorpy.com/files/images/29892u.jpg
None of those fellows look like fashion enthusiasts (they worked in a drug store), but one can count several two-button jackets that would be very high stance by today's standards.
OK, maybe the proletariat and the full-on dandies sported higher button stances, but what about men who were part of the establishment and cared about being correct?
In fact, 2-button jackets often had such a high stance that the bottom button was buttoned alone, with the top left undone.
The trend towards dropping the 2B's stance towards the waist seems to have developed in the mid-30's, and it generally drifted slowly southward for the next 3 decades. It then bounced around at or around the waist for another 3 decades, and then began climbing northward about a decade ago.
None of this is to express an opinion on what stance is best - I think that varies from man to man - but simply to point out that the high stance has some very long historical antecedence. It is not inherently incorrect, nor is it "not classic." I, for one, like a bit of it for variety's sake, and consider a stance that has drooped below the belt to be unattractively reminiscent of a bathrobe that is about to come completely open. But it is anathema to combine the higher stance, as is the fashion today, with low-rise trousers.
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CuffDaddy, that's not a fair comparison. Those 2-button suits are more like 3-button suits without the bottom button, a style that died out in the 1960s. The Duke of Windsor continued to wear that style throughout his life, though later always left the top button open. Those examples are all higher than the current 2-button style, but they also don't pivot on the top button like 2-button suits still do. The problem I see with most high 2-button suits now is that the bottom button is placed too low to be fastened in this style.
Well, you've lost me there, Matt. I don't see what the position of the lower button has to do with whether a higher stance works or not. If you think that matters, then consider the 3-button, which is also longer-tenured than the 2B. That has the same higher stance, and few think that it just doesn't work.
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What I'm trying to say is that on the old 2-button style the main button is the lower button, whereas on the new style the main button is the top button. The high 2-button suits made now are still meant to only fasten at the top. The old 2-button acted like a 3-button. To best explain it I've provided an illustration. The blue line is the waist. All of the pockets in the illustration are at the same height, though in reality they can vary and I don't find any trends in regards to a particular era.
As for the original topic, I find that Polo puts the buttons at just the right spot, provided you're wearing the proper length.
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I assume the RLGive2012 promotion does not apply to MTM suits, even if asking to purchase at full price, no? Says, excludes "special order" apparel, though one could argue that the MTM program is not really special or custom order.
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