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tocqueville

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I need to start building a proper summer wardrobe, and I want to include summer coats or blazers. Here are the requirements:

1. I can afford, at the moment, one. So it has to be as versatile as possible.
2. It has to be dressy enough to be worn with a tie and nice slacks. Some of the chino blazers I see on the internet look a tad too informal. Or am I wrong about those chino blazers?
3. Can't be navy. My wife forbids me from wearing a navy blazer.
4. I'm open to any fabrics, although I'm guessing I should aim for unlined or partially lined.
5. I'm open to patterns, esp. if it enables me to break out of the khaki/navy hegemony over men's wear.

Here's a Brooks chino blazer:
https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=308&Product_Id=1466744&Parent_Id=305&default_color=KHAKI&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=

Brooks also has some nice summer blazers of different colors, patterns. So does Tyrwhitt. The question is ultimately, which pattern/color is best as a wardrobe foundation if we're exclusing navy?
 
I am curious what your wife has against navy. For the last 50 years I have been telling my customers that the most versatile jacket for a man is a navy blazer. It can be worn to functions where men are wearing suits and to functions where men are wearing chinos and polo shirts. You can find a weight than can be worn 12 months of the year! Since navy is out,the color and pattern suggestion should come from your wife.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors
www.chipp2.com
www.chipp2.com/blog/
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I agree about the navy blazer's versatility. I think her problem with it is that it's ubiquitous. Indeed, it's a default uniform for many men in many instances. Perhaps because she's not American, she also sees it as an American peculiarity, and I think there's something to that, too. I must admit that I am sympathetic to the point of view. I mean, how many guys at any given occasion turn up with navy blazers, blue shirts, and khaki pants? And since I really don't know how to dress, the temptation would be strong to wear precisely that outfit.

Actually, I'm thinking that non-navy blue might be a good option. Tyrwhit, for example, has a "mid" blue coat that is rather distinctive:
https://www.ctshirts.co.uk/men's-outerwear/men's-blazers-and-jackets/Mid--blue-modern-jacket?q=gbpdefault||BL024MDB|||||||||||||

I also think this is spiffy:
https://www.ctshirts.co.uk/men's-outerwear/men's-blazers-and-jackets/Summer-tweed-large-check-jacket?q=gbpdefault||JK035SND|||||||||||||
 
I can afford, at the moment, one. So it has to be as versatile as possible

I agree about the navy blazer's versatility. I think her problem with it is that it's ubiquitous. Indeed, it's a default uniform for many men in many instances.

Actually, I'm thinking that non-navy blue might be a good option. Tyrwhit, for example, has a "mid" blue coat that is rather distinctive.
While I fully understand and agree that it is extremely important to keep the wife happy (anyone who has ever dealt with an unhappy one will understand this), I think that the one thing that you DO NOT want here is a jacket that is "distinctive" since it will be your only one for the time being. In the position that you are in at present the most ubiquitous jacket that you can find will be your best choice. This would be the navy blazer.

Keep in mind that if you wear something that stands out in any way it will be readily noticed if you wear it more than once within a short period of time while something like a navy blazer will go unnoticed in this regard. Just change up the shirt, tie, and pants and it will look like you are wearing something different every day; and since there are many different shirt, tie, and pants combinations that go with the navy blazer you have a lot of options.

Personally I think that your best option would be to get your wife on board with the navy blazer if that's possible. I would remind her that even though she sees this as an "American peculiarity," the fact is that you are in America and you know the old saying; when in Rome-----. Good luck.

Cruiser
 
As it is going to be your only sport coat for the meantime, I'd suggest getting a colour that flatters you the most: if you have blonde hair, light skin, etc, purchase a camel-coloured jacket; if you have mid- to dark-brown/black hair, etc, then perhaps a dark PofW jacket.
 
Another advantage of navy blue: It looks good against the skin, no matter what color your skin is. Light grey (for example) doesn't work for everyone -- most colors don't.

Dudes typically overlook this criterion.
 
Care to explain what puppy tooth is? I've seen it in product descriptions, but I've yet to see a

You can't really see it in my picture but it's a black and white plaid that is smaller than dogstooth. From a distance it tends to look light grey. Houndstooth is the largest pattern of this kind.
 
Buy yourself a really nice navy blazer that will be an anchor in your wardrobe for years, and at the same time, get her an exceptionally nice dress, one she is sure to love, and go home with them and tell her you hope you didnt go overboard, but if she thinks you did, you can take "them" back. That should solve the problem.
 
Your wife might be more opposed to the traditional brass buttoned navy blazer than any navy sport coat at all. I've seen some pretty cool solid navy seersucker jackets in a sporty cut that don't have that boys-at-prep-school look that I think a lot of wives fear more than navy itself. You might want to ask her.
 
That's a nice jacket.

Why is a black and white puppy tooth more versatile than a simple grey?
A simple grey looks like the jacket to a suit that has lost its pants. A black/white mini check says sports coat.
By the way. all three of the BB jackets you referenced look good. As Mr Jenezen suggests, get which ever goes best with your skin tone. You won't beat the price.
 
I agree about the navy blazer's versatility. I think her problem with it is that it's ubiquitous. Indeed, it's a default uniform for many men in many instances. Perhaps because she's not American, she also sees it as an American peculiarity, and I think there's something to that, too. I must admit that I am sympathetic to the point of view. I mean, how many guys at any given occasion turn up with navy blazers, blue shirts, and khaki pants? And since I really don't know how to dress, the temptation would be strong to wear precisely that outfit.
If, as you say, this will be the only summer weight jacket in your wardrobe for a time, a navy blazer is absolutely the most versatile option.

Buy a nice one, avoid the brass buttons, and learn to dress! (That is what you are here for, after all.)

The most versatile and most often worn summer-weight jacket in my wardrobe is a navy blazer. I own several but the one I prefer to wear is a very lightweight E Zegna, with a nice cut, a dark navy color and subtle, silver-black buttons.
The combinations of colors of slacks and shirts that can be worn with it are almost limitless, so I can wear it two or three times a week without it seeming as though I am wearing the same thing again, and I never wear it with a blue shirt and khakis.

The versatility of a navy blazer is in sharp contrast to a jacket like this one which you link to:

which would be good for not much more than four wearings throughout the entire summer.
...And you would not be much better off with the "distinctive" mid-blue jacket you also link to. "Distinctive" means it stands out in people's minds.. and thus they will notice repeated wearings.
 
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