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ackack

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Happy holidays to all. I've been on the hunt for a new pair of winter boots to battle a new England winter. For whatever reason my feet are always cold, even with thick socks. I'm looking for a boot that serves multiple purposes-snow shoveling, walking in the rain, outdoor football games etc. It would be great if bean offered a full waterproof shearling lined boot since these seem to be the warmest. However, is it necessary to buy a complete waterproof boot or can i get by with water resistant?

Also, can anyone comment on the pros of a 10" vs 8" boot?

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

Does anyone have opinions on the following three boots?

8" thinsulate/goretex
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/35487?feat=506698-GN3

10" shearling lined
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/43351?feat=506698-GN3

10" thinsulate
 
I've never owned them, but aesthetically, I'm not a fan of shearling lined footwear for men (maybe it's becasue I bought a pair of fleece lined slippers for my mother for Christmas). Also, I suspect the fleece lining will get matted down rather quickly and the thinsulate is probably your best long-term bet for durable, warm, foul weather wear. If you're interested in warm feet and water/snow isn't an issue, I'd just get a solid pair of insulated leather work boots (e.g., Timberland, etc.), which will breathe unlike the Bean boots which, in my experience (again never own an insulated pair so they may be different) can get damp/clammy when wearing for a prolonged period of time - especially while resting after exertion.

I really dislike the look of those Sorels or any other really heavy duty make - I'm sure they are practical, but they look like overkill unless you're working outside in Canada somewhere.
 
I would recommend against the shearling lined version. It's more of a fashion boot and lacks a gusseted tongue so that it can be rolled down to expose the shearling. While that's great for showing off the shearling, it nullifies any waterproofing you might be able to get above the rubber bottom. If you want an all-around boot for cold weather wear, I would suggest the 10" thinsulate boots and then take the time to wax the leather uppers and seams with sno-seal. The non-thinsulates will require thick or multiple pairs of socks.

If you require some serious cold weather protection, I would suggest a true pac-boot from Schnee's, Hoffman, Kennetrek, White's etc. These have a separate wool or Thinsulate liner and are good to very low temps.
 
Why not go for the maine hunting shoe? When dealing with snow, 10" is more practical than 8". If you think you will need it, go for the thinsulate lining. Definitely use snoseal and take proper care of them.
 
I believe that the 8" is probably tall enough....the taller the boot the harder and more annoying it is to put on and the less likely you will be to want to put it on at all. I have a pair of 8" bean boots and a pair of the slip on mocs which are basically just the bottom of the bean boot...and I wear the mocs more because I can just slip them on. If it's really bad outside I can put on gaiters. I don't have the same issue with my feet getting cold though so...definitely consider a goretex or thinsulate insulation. The first one you list, with both goretex and thinsulate seems good.
 
When trekking I've always found the most sensible option for keeping warm is a regular thick felted removable wool boot liner. I also reckon this is much better for the leather as you can remove the liner and let the leather dry on it's own. Usually regular sewn in liners dry very slowly, which not only gives one cold feet, but could also lead to an increased risk of premature leather rotting.
I've never tried the bean boots, but you might want to try sizing up one of their uninsulated models and get a wool boot liner.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
thank you all for the responses....can anyone comment on using the 10" Maine Hunting Shoe with gore-tex and thinsulate liners as a winter boot? Or am I better off using the 8" Bean Boot gore-tex and thinsulate model for the new england winter months?
 
I recommend separating the insulation from the boot. I hate thinsulate lined boots - should they get wet, they stay wet for a long time.

Best is to get the unlined Maine Hunting Shoe and a pair of ragg wool socks. If it's bitterly cold, a felt insole can be used additionally. Both insole and socks can be pulled out and dried separately.

I use the 10" boots, but dont think they're really necessary. But that's what the MHS comes in, so.... If the snow is deep, you'll require a gaiter regardless.

I just used a ragg/MHS combo to clear my driveway and walkways here in Chappaqua. Can't be improved upon.
 
I recommend separating the insulation from the boot. I hate thinsulate lined boots - should they get wet, they stay wet for a long time.

Best is to get the unlined Maine Hunting Shoe and a pair of ragg wool socks. If it's bitterly cold, a felt insole can be used additionally. Both insole and socks can be pulled out and dried separately.

I use the 10" boots, but dont think they're really necessary. But that's what the MHS comes in, so.... If the snow is deep, you'll require a gaiter regardless.

I just used a ragg/MHS combo to clear my driveway and walkways here in Chappaqua. Can't be improved upon.
My completely different opinion may derive from hiking and climbing in another environment. In the Rocky Mountains, especially above timberline on summit climbs, marshy, wet ground is often encountered, and the "trail" is sometimes the stream. Most high-altitude mountaineers here have learned to trust GoreTex, especially in any Danner product, in combination with Thinsulate. Socks are definitely an alternative for warmth, but you will have to learn what material works best for you. It may or may not be wool. Keeping the water out of your boots is vastly superior to managing it once it is in.
 
My completely different opinion may derive from hiking and climbing in another environment. In the Rocky Mountains, especially above timberline on summit climbs, marshy, wet ground is often encountered, and the "trail" is sometimes the stream. Most high-altitude mountaineers here have learned to trust GoreTex, especially in any Danner product, in combination with Thinsulate. Socks are definitely an alternative for warmth, but you will have to learn what material works best for you. It may or may not be wool. Keeping the water out of your boots is vastly superior to managing it once it is in.
Well, the Gore-tex might keep the water out, but it also keeps the moisture trapped inside (for a long time). Of course this will always be an issue with rubber bottoms, however with a removabe felt liner/wool sock, you can just insert another liner, and your feet are dry as ever. Well proofed leather is as waterproof as any tech-material I've ever tried, so I don't really see the point of the additional membrane.
 
thank you all for the responses....can anyone comment on using the 10" Maine Hunting Shoe with gore-tex and thinsulate liners as a winter boot? Or am I better off using the 8" Bean Boot gore-tex and thinsulate model for the new england winter months?
Really? You can't figure that one out for yourself?

At the risk of prompting sophmoric chortling, I doubt 2 inches is gonna' mak a big difference - they'll both suck in a 14 inch snowstorm. Just order what you like.
 
He's poddling around suburban Hartford with his golden lab . . .
There is no such thing as a golden lab...

There are:
1) Golden Retrievers;and
2) Yellow Labradors.

They are two distinct breeds and any combination of the two would be a mutt.
 
I would spring for the Maine Hunting Shoe, as someone else suggested.

I have the 8 inch thinsulate, and though they are pretty warm I still find my feet getting pretty darn cold when stomping through the snow. Perhaps a couple extra pairs of socks could remedy this.. I haven't tried.
 
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