How do you get the right Alden/Alden-for-BB LHS fit? Size down, or your normal size? And is it different between the unlined and lined models?
How do you get the right LHS fit?
Orgetorix
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I "size down" in both the lined and unlined lhs (though always wear the same size in loafers, 8D or 8.5C). There may be some slight difference between the lined and unlined versions - I've heard that repeatedly on the forum - but if there is a slight difference then it's certainly better than heel slippage if I buy my normal size in bluchers (8.5D) or balmorals (8.5D or 9D) depending on last.
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I wear a size 9.5 D in many Alden lasts, 9 D in the barrie and tru-balance lasts, but 8.5 D in the van lasted BB unlined shell LHS. My sense is most people just go down half a size, but I find that the lack of a lining seems to make the shoe roomier and more flexible, and the last thing I want is a loafer slipping around on my foot. I do take a 9 D in the BB-Alden full strap loafer, which is lined and on the aberdeen last. I don't think I have ever tried on a lined LHS.
I have heard of people wearing their normal size in the unlined LHS, but they seem to be the exception. I would start by going down half a size.
I have heard of people wearing their normal size in the unlined LHS, but they seem to be the exception. I would start by going down half a size.
I tried on the unlined for BB LHS for the first time last weekend and started with the same size that I wear in AE #5. Right out of the box, it was the most comfortable shoe I have ever worn. I'm not sure what I should do though since I think cordovan stretches more than calf?
For reference, I have multiple pairs of BB unlined in 11D and Alden lined in 11.5D . My "true Brannock size" is an 11D/E - I literally fall right in the middle of those two widths, so differences in lasts and my careful/cautious use of an instep stretcher to eliminate my high instep as an issue have been crucial.
Part of the issue with fit is your tolerance for width and instep height. I have a somewhat high instep; therefore, I don't size down, since the lasts are already tight on the instep. In fact, for the lined LHS the 11.5D were initially very tight on the instep - I'm sure purchasing a wide width might have helped some, but the 11.5D fits better in the width than the 11.5E does! I've purchased an instep stretcher due to my high instep; while this isn't a solution I'd recommend for everyone, it's helped my insteps out tremendously with a variety of shoes that are otherwise perfect in the length and width at the forefoot.
There's some room for personal preference here - with loafers, some people like them a bit loose and almost "slipper-like" and some people like them to strictly conform to the foot. The lined version is much less "slipper-like" after wear than the unlined, in my experience. I have one pair of BB unlined that date back probably 30-35 years; these LHS are the most comfortable and slipper-like shoes I own, particularly sockless. Due to this factor, I would be hesitant to purchase BB unlined in a "perfect fit brand new" but would rather get them somewhat tight (which is what I did with the BB whiskey - I could have gone with an 11.5D and felt better immediately after purchase, but the 11D has turned out perfectly over time).
It's not enough to understand the lasts; you have to understand your feet and your preferences. BTW, cordovan does stretch - but don't expect it to stretch in the same degree as calf, at least not without a stretcher or some time. The unlined LHS does seem to stretch more than the lined LHS, in my experience - hence my insistence on an initially tight fit with the BB model.
Part of the issue with fit is your tolerance for width and instep height. I have a somewhat high instep; therefore, I don't size down, since the lasts are already tight on the instep. In fact, for the lined LHS the 11.5D were initially very tight on the instep - I'm sure purchasing a wide width might have helped some, but the 11.5D fits better in the width than the 11.5E does! I've purchased an instep stretcher due to my high instep; while this isn't a solution I'd recommend for everyone, it's helped my insteps out tremendously with a variety of shoes that are otherwise perfect in the length and width at the forefoot.
There's some room for personal preference here - with loafers, some people like them a bit loose and almost "slipper-like" and some people like them to strictly conform to the foot. The lined version is much less "slipper-like" after wear than the unlined, in my experience. I have one pair of BB unlined that date back probably 30-35 years; these LHS are the most comfortable and slipper-like shoes I own, particularly sockless. Due to this factor, I would be hesitant to purchase BB unlined in a "perfect fit brand new" but would rather get them somewhat tight (which is what I did with the BB whiskey - I could have gone with an 11.5D and felt better immediately after purchase, but the 11D has turned out perfectly over time).
It's not enough to understand the lasts; you have to understand your feet and your preferences. BTW, cordovan does stretch - but don't expect it to stretch in the same degree as calf, at least not without a stretcher or some time. The unlined LHS does seem to stretch more than the lined LHS, in my experience - hence my insistence on an initially tight fit with the BB model.
I have had a counterintuitive experience with the lined shell lhs. I bought my usual size, 11d, which is also what I wear in the Barrie. They were loose at first, my heel lifting out with every step and I felt I should have sized down. But after breaking them in the heel slippage stopped, they seemed to tighten up and now fit very comfortably.
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I have come to realize that Alden sizes are just approximations. I have a pair of LHS loafers in both shell cordovan and calfskin. They are the exact same marked size, but the fit is significantly larger in the shells. I also have a couple pairs of calf tassels. One is a half size bigger then the other one (same width). The half size pair are a little loose, and the other pair are a little tight. Bottom line is you have to try them on to know if they fit.
Scott
Scott
Well-kept: thanks for an excellent insight regarding heel slippage.
Here's an observation for my fellow Texans: size your LHSs exactly as you would size your boots - look for wiggle room in the toes, a closely-fitting but not tight instep, and a good "slipping into" when you put them on. Also expect heel slippage for a couple of months of frequent wear.
Here's an observation for my fellow Texans: size your LHSs exactly as you would size your boots - look for wiggle room in the toes, a closely-fitting but not tight instep, and a good "slipping into" when you put them on. Also expect heel slippage for a couple of months of frequent wear.
It depends . . .
I think the LHS is just one of those shoes you have to try on each time and take into consideration how you will wear them. I measure out as a 12.5 B on the Brannock device and I have a pair of #8's in a 12.5 B that fit great - with thicker socks (like with a pair of GT "Fluffies") - and were almost perfect right out of the box, if not a little loose in the heel. The BB unlined, however, worked for me in a 12 C but I like to wear those without socks. The fit was snug at first but then after a short time began fitting like a pair of Quoddy's. Back to an Alden branded LHS - a pair in Ravello. I didn't feel like waiting on a special order (when I have now been waiting over six months for a stock shoe I purchased through a local dealer) and took a chance on a 12 B that Alden SF had in stock. I must admit I was pleasantly surprised when it fit well too! Now, it is better with thinner or no socks, but it is still very comfortable and actually more secure on my foot than the #8's.
I know they are on the same last, the Van, but I could not even get my foot into the 12 B from BB! Additionally, all of the above were initially tight across the instep of the right shoe in the exact same spot and there is very little difference in toe box room. The size up/down advice is a good place to start but I believe one should definitely try as many different size/width combinations as they can before buying each time - particularly when looking at shell versions.
Strange but wonderful shoes!
I think the LHS is just one of those shoes you have to try on each time and take into consideration how you will wear them. I measure out as a 12.5 B on the Brannock device and I have a pair of #8's in a 12.5 B that fit great - with thicker socks (like with a pair of GT "Fluffies") - and were almost perfect right out of the box, if not a little loose in the heel. The BB unlined, however, worked for me in a 12 C but I like to wear those without socks. The fit was snug at first but then after a short time began fitting like a pair of Quoddy's. Back to an Alden branded LHS - a pair in Ravello. I didn't feel like waiting on a special order (when I have now been waiting over six months for a stock shoe I purchased through a local dealer) and took a chance on a 12 B that Alden SF had in stock. I must admit I was pleasantly surprised when it fit well too! Now, it is better with thinner or no socks, but it is still very comfortable and actually more secure on my foot than the #8's.
I know they are on the same last, the Van, but I could not even get my foot into the 12 B from BB! Additionally, all of the above were initially tight across the instep of the right shoe in the exact same spot and there is very little difference in toe box room. The size up/down advice is a good place to start but I believe one should definitely try as many different size/width combinations as they can before buying each time - particularly when looking at shell versions.
Strange but wonderful shoes!
I'm curious whether others find this too -- that sized the same, the Alden lined LHS fit a little snugger than the BB unlined.
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I take my same size for the Barrie and Van lasts. That's the general sizing recommendation from Alden in SF.
I sent an email to Leather Soul regarding pre-ordering the Chromexcel LHS and Tom also recommended ordering the size that fits best in the Barrie last.
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You got it! Just buy as many pairs as you can on eBay and see what works best. My first time I just bought a pair of lhs that was really beat (cost me $20) so I could check the sizing. After trying them on, I gave them a good polish and sent them back to eBay where they sold for $40. Bit of a hassle, but I effectively got paid to try on some Aldens.
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I'll be in DC over Thanksgiving, so I may stop in at Alden and do some trying on. I could go to the local BB store, but if they stock the LHS at all they don't have many sizes.
BB's that carry shoes only stock D widths - and if you want any other width the wait can be long, depending on stock. Sizing would also be potentially hit or miss. Go to the Alden store, it's the most reliable thing to do - the only thing you're missing is the unlined LHS, and well, it's easier to find a BB than an Alden store!
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this is actually the best way. one cannot know how a shoe will like the lhs will break in until it is worn for a few weeks. to take the advise of the sales person and just go for it in a given size is an expensive risk.
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I got the unlined BB LHS one half size down from my normal size. I chose this size only after trying on both my normal size and a full size down at a BB shop. I am still happy with this size 3 years later.
The instep thing is definitely real, they don't fit like weejuns...or really any other shoe. You have to try them and for some people, the LHS just doesn't work in any size.
I have learned that erring on the larger size is better than the smaller size, but that is just my personal opinion.
Shoe fitting takes years of getting to know your own feet.
I would trust an Alden salesperson or the shoe person at 346 Madison to help fit these shoes. It might help to tell them what size you take in another common shoe.
The instep thing is definitely real, they don't fit like weejuns...or really any other shoe. You have to try them and for some people, the LHS just doesn't work in any size.
I have learned that erring on the larger size is better than the smaller size, but that is just my personal opinion.
Shoe fitting takes years of getting to know your own feet.
I would trust an Alden salesperson or the shoe person at 346 Madison to help fit these shoes. It might help to tell them what size you take in another common shoe.
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37,154 Posts
Having lined versions of Alden's LHS in both shell and calf and a pair of the unlined shell BB LHS's, I have sized down one half size in every case. With the lined shell versions, I experienced some minimal discomfort at the top of my foot, just under the penny strap on the left shoe. After a substantial break-in period, the pain is gone an the shoes fit very comfortably. With the unlined shell BB LHS and the calf LHS's there simply never was any discomfort experienced, I assume because the unlined shells were just a bit more roomy and the calf LHS's were a bit more pliable than shell versions, right out of the box!
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