It's time to renew my shirt collection with some serious purchases, and I'm once again thinking through sizing. The guys with the tape measures at the local Brooks Brothers tell me I'm really a 15 or 15.5, although in the past I've been buying 16s to compensate for future shrinkage. The salesmen tell me that what I need to be doing is buying more shirts, washing them less often, and probably simply not hanging on to them as long as I do (most of my shirts are 3-5 years old). I did most recently buy some 15.5s, and indeed they do feel just right, although I wonder how long that will last. Any advice? (By the way, I'm thinking of buying a bunch of shirts from T.M. Lewin...the comments on this forum suggest they shrink less than BB, but who knows?)
is it customary to buy shirts with collars one size up to account for future shrinkage?
tocqueville
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It's time to renew my shirt collection with some serious purchases, and I'm once again thinking through sizing. The guys with the tape measures at the local Brooks Brothers tell me I'm really a 15 or 15.5, although in the past I've been buying 16s to compensate for future shrinkage. The salesmen tell me that what I need to be doing is buying more shirts, washing them less often, and probably simply not hanging on to them as long as I do (most of my shirts are 3-5 years old). I did most recently buy some 15.5s, and indeed they do feel just right, although I wonder how long that will last. Any advice? (By the way, I'm thinking of buying a bunch of shirts from T.M. Lewin...the comments on this forum suggest they shrink less than BB, but who knows?)
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Frankly I have not experienced much shrinkage in the necks of OCBDs and pinpoint cottons, purchased from BB's retail locations. However on a couple of occasions that I have purchased the 346 version of the shirts from BB's outlet stores, shrinkage has occurred in the collar measure and sleeve length of those shirts, over the course of several launderings. Hindsight tells me sizing up would have been a good idea in those instances
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Shirts no shrink. Buy size right.
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I only experience this problem with VERY cheap RTW shirts (especially those from discount stores like Burlington Coat Factory).
Most reputable makers know their fabrics and will build in the extra fabric to account for any shrinkage.
When I had a MTM done through monikerwear.com *, the CEO told me that they knew, from lots of experience, how much a specific fabric would shrink. Thus, my shirt arrived a bit too big everywhere. After 2 washings, it was perfect.
Some pseudo-Italian named shirt brands (Mapizono Fabricazo or Famgiolio Derevenza or Olivio Gardenaria) at Bargain Barn understand that most shirts sold are going to be worn right out of the packaging for "special" occasions: weddings, Easter, funerals. After all, they start to un-fuse and fall apart after two washings anyway, so who cares?
*I have no commercial interest in this company
Most reputable makers know their fabrics and will build in the extra fabric to account for any shrinkage.
When I had a MTM done through monikerwear.com *, the CEO told me that they knew, from lots of experience, how much a specific fabric would shrink. Thus, my shirt arrived a bit too big everywhere. After 2 washings, it was perfect.
Some pseudo-Italian named shirt brands (Mapizono Fabricazo or Famgiolio Derevenza or Olivio Gardenaria) at Bargain Barn understand that most shirts sold are going to be worn right out of the packaging for "special" occasions: weddings, Easter, funerals. After all, they start to un-fuse and fall apart after two washings anyway, so who cares?
*I have no commercial interest in this company
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1,175 Posts
In my experience I have to size up .5 inch in the BB OCBD shirts. There is some shrinkage, but it's mostly due to the extra thick material (versus a more dressy shirt) making the collar fit tighter from the start.
times have changed
Back when I wore suits or jacket and tie every day I wore OCBD's. When the collars frayed after a few years I asked the seamstress at the laundry to turn them over so the unfrayed inside of the collar would show. This gave several more months' wear, if not more. I understand that historically BB patrons would bring their BB OCBD's into the store for this service.
I find such purposeful frugality appealing. It is telling that sales people from the putative source of this worthwhile practice appear to now be counselling customers to engage in less thrifty ways.
I rarely wear OCBD's these days. When I do, it is often one with a turned collar and careful hand stitching. This adds to the pleasure of wearing the shirt.
Regards,
Gurdon
Back when I wore suits or jacket and tie every day I wore OCBD's. When the collars frayed after a few years I asked the seamstress at the laundry to turn them over so the unfrayed inside of the collar would show. This gave several more months' wear, if not more. I understand that historically BB patrons would bring their BB OCBD's into the store for this service.
I find such purposeful frugality appealing. It is telling that sales people from the putative source of this worthwhile practice appear to now be counselling customers to engage in less thrifty ways.
I rarely wear OCBD's these days. When I do, it is often one with a turned collar and careful hand stitching. This adds to the pleasure of wearing the shirt.
Regards,
Gurdon
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Well, this may seem contradictory to what I said earlier, but by the time your collar frays that badly you might consider relegating the shirt to yard work or at best VERY casual wear. It's probably pretty worn in other areas by that point, too.
Although it's a neat idea, I see no point to paying for a service which will only extend the life under a year. If anything, you should get the collar and cuffs replaced like many shirtmakers do for their clients. Then again, I also see no point to duct taping boats/bluchers/loafers/whatever "trad" footwear rather than, ya know, resoling them.
Although it's a neat idea, I see no point to paying for a service which will only extend the life under a year. If anything, you should get the collar and cuffs replaced like many shirtmakers do for their clients. Then again, I also see no point to duct taping boats/bluchers/loafers/whatever "trad" footwear rather than, ya know, resoling them.
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I like to err on the side of big. A shirt that's a bit loose in the neck is still wearable; one that's too tight is a torture device and you'll end up donating it.
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The last time I was in a Brooks Brothers, the two sales associates assured me their collars would not shrink.
They then tried to sell me a shirt whose collar was too small, and when I pointed that out, they told me that they never buttoned their top button. And sure enough, they flipped up their ties to show me.
They then tried to sell me a shirt whose collar was too small, and when I pointed that out, they told me that they never buttoned their top button. And sure enough, they flipped up their ties to show me.
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My neck measures 15.5 but in my experince the TM Lewin 15.5 becomes too tight after a couple of washes, whereas the 16 collar is just right.
The CT shirts that measure 16'' are a tad too big even after a couple of washes.
The TM Lewin shirt I refer to is the twill, which may make a difference.
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