The Art of the Unlined Jacket.

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by Flanderian, Jul 2, 2018.

  1. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Flanders
    Lined, 3/4 lined, half lined, buggy lined and unlined. Much discussion as to what is to be preferred for the warmer seasons, with the nod typically going to buggy lined or unlined. Full confession, contrarily, I find full lined wool suits more comfortable in hot weather than partially, or unlined wool suits. Though I'm hypothesizing regarding the unlined wool suit, as I've never had one.

    But I've long read from many sage sartorial scribblers that the height of tailoring art is actually the unlined jacket, as it takes the most work. All insides seams must be perfectly cut and finished, and some then taped. So it is I happened upon the stylish unlined linen jacket by B&Tailor, Seoul. Love it's feel, and the inspired use of two buttons for the sleeves. Absolutely perfect.


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    Last edited: Jul 2, 2018
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  2. JBierly

    JBierly Advanced Member

    United States
    Tennessee
    Chattanooga
    I have a sweet Luciano Barbera out of linen that is of the same genre (more of a shirt/jacket). I tend to prefer a bit more structure (1/4 lined) however.
     
  3. Oldsarge

    Oldsarge Moderator and Bon Vivant

    On the banks of the Willamette
    United States
    Oregon
    Oak Grove
    I have a couple of quarter-lined jackets by Hemrajani. I like them a lot when the weather warms but if it gets beyond warm, it's back to the aloha shirts and classic menswear bedamned--until the rains return.
     
  4. derum

    derum Senior Member

    875
    United States
    Texas
    Houston
    My favorite partially lined jacket. As stated by Flanderian, the finish of the unlined portions is very good.
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  5. Fading Fast

    Fading Fast Connoisseur

    United States
    New York
    NY
    That is one freakin' gorgeous sport coat. The way it folds and drapes says so much. It would be an incredible summer SC.

    One of the few trends in "fashion" today that I like is that more and more men's sport coats are coming partially lined. With modern indoor heating - and my desire to wear sweaters - I like to have even my winter sport coats only partially lined. I have a few super-heavy, fully lined sport coats for truly cold outdoor days, but in general, my life has me wearing this stuff indoors, so less lining, the better.

    That said, I exaggerated, as partially lining for winter SCs is the best as unlined ones can be hard to put on and take off as the "rough" textures of the SC will "hold" to the rough textures of sweaters.

    Conversely, if they are well made, I want as little lining as possible in my summer sport coats so that they are as light as possible and since they usually aren't fighting something rough in texture under them.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2018
  6. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Flanders
    And here's what I believe is the same jacket on a form with a shirt and tie. Looks great!

    But while the cloth goes fine with the denim, the mode is dissonant to me. While the linen and denim are fine, once you add the silk tie and dress shirt, you've committed a faux pas in my book. I know that denim has prestige and popularity in much of Asia that transcends its workman's cloth origins, but for me, it will always be rustic and best suitable to an aesthetic of the same.

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  7. Oldsarge

    Oldsarge Moderator and Bon Vivant

    On the banks of the Willamette
    United States
    Oregon
    Oak Grove
    Agreed. The shirt and tie are inappropriate to the coat and denim. A chambray shirt and knit tie would make for a better gestalt--and suede chukkas, methinks.
     
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  8. Lucido

    Lucido Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    238
    Ireland
    Munster
    Limerick
    I'll never understand the pairing of linen with jeans. If it's warm enough for linen then it's too hot for me to be able to wear denim with any degree of comfort.
     
  9. SplurgeFrugal1

    SplurgeFrugal1 Starting Member

    22
    United States
    New Mexico
    Albuquerque
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    Instead of denim, I would pair this (stunning) linen jacket with a pair of lightweight wool gabardine or cotton slacks that picks up the color of the buttons. Pleated, cuffed, with a classic wide leg width. The final touch, a dark brown braided leather belt.
     
  10. delicious_scent

    delicious_scent Senior Member

    925
    Canada
    Saskatchewan
    Regina
    I've done it before.

    Olive green linen/cotton shirt paired with light wash denim.

    You're right, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense temperature wise, but I like the contrast and textures it provides.
     

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