Suitsupply feedback please

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by AlanMac, Mar 20, 2017.

  1. AlanMac

    AlanMac Member

    (cross posted from styleforum)

    I recently purchased a SuitSupply Havana navy unlined jacket and matching trousers -
    I'm not used to wearing suits/jackets so would appreciate some feedback on the fit - it's a 38S jacket, 32 trousers. Please disregard the trousers length. No alterations yet - so it's returnable! The main thing I'm worried about is the slight pulling at the waist of the jacket evident on the pic of back of jacket (maybe due to my unnatural posture in the pic).Currently, if I tug on the top button I have about 1.5 to 2" of space between jacket and my stomach - not quite enough to fit a tennis ball! I think the left sleeve might need letting out a little to even the length. With the trousers I'd like to get rid of the belt loops and add side adjusters (about 3" of extra length in legs), taper the legs and seat a bit and sort out the length. Do you think this is do-able or should I return it and try a more roomy fit (like the Napoli)? Or is the fit just not complementary? I'm about 5'7", 152lbs.



  2. Matt S

    Matt S Well-Known Member

    Welcome! What is the intended purpose of this suit? Since it has patch pockets, it's a sportier, casual suit. The fit might be okay if you ordinarily stand with a more relaxed pose. The button stance on the jacket is too high and makes your torso look awkwardly proportioned. Nothing can be done to fix that. The top button should be about 2 inches lower.
  3. JBierly

    JBierly Well-Known Member

    Not certain why you want to taper the legs more - they are already so narrow that they are bunching up. As it is, you are going to have the hem ankle high just to get some semblance of a reasonable drape.
  4. AlanMac

    AlanMac Member

    Thanks! I don't wear suits very often. I have a couple - none are which I'd consider a good fit. So, I'm kind of re-booting my wardrobe - giving the old ones to charity and starting over. I was originally shopping for a basic navy do-it-all and came across this. I thought it might be good as an option I could dress up or down as needed for all but the more formal occasions. I've started reading a bit on suits, jackets, etc. and have become interested in the different cuts, fabrics, fit etc. I even took a stroll down Savile Row the day I bought the Suitsupply one! Maybe I'd be better off in something more conventional - like the Suitsupply Lazio which I also tried - have one (bad) pic. The button stance seems a bit lower? First and foremost I want something versatile that fits and suits my body shape.

    Last edited: Mar 21, 2017
  5. alphadelta

    alphadelta Well-Known Member

    My comments:

    Patch pockets are too casual for a suit -- OK for a sport coat but too informal for a suit.
    Button point is too high
    Jacket is too short
    Trouser cuff opening is too small.

    Not sure if all of the above are easily fixed.
  6. Matt S

    Matt S Well-Known Member

    This one looks a whole lot better.
  7. Searching_Best_Fit

    Searching_Best_Fit Well-Known Member

    Agreed with Matt S about the fit. The Lazio seems a better fit, wrt. button stance, on you rather than the one in OP.

    Also agreed that you should think twice, no three times, before you think about tapering the trousers. As shown in both pictures, the trousers are already slim. Right now, because of unhemmed trousers it slouch around your ankle. Simply roll up above your ankle 2"+ to see how the trousers drapes along with your posture. Two clean lines front and back are required.

    Think about your posture again. In the OP the pictures shows you are with a sway back (pelvis front, chest back posture). Just relax and be nature on your posture when you are testing the fit. In addition, do not extend your arms straight down because that could extend another 1/2" or so from your natural posture. Two words: Just Relax.

    It seems that the 38S has the right length based your height and the pictures in OP. The picture with Lazio is distorted due to camera angle but it seems, IMO, that has the same length as the one in OP. I am assuming the pictures in OP was taken with camera at around your waist so distortion is minimized. Checking the picture from the back the jacket length has the right proportion and it does cover your rears.

    Now, once you can get your natural posture you need to check your sleeve length again. I would guess that it is at the right length if you do not straighten your arms, but only you will know.

    Finally, if you want a jack-for-all-trade suit, do not get one with patch pockets. Just get a regular flap pocket one. The patch pockets limits you to be in a less formal side of spectrum, as said already.
  8. medhat

    medhat Well-Known Member

    Agree, but I wanted to highlight the comment about OP having a sway back. I think it's more a SuitSupply issue than an issue with their customers (unless they ALL have sway backs!). It seems that essentially all the "critique my SuitSupply suit" posts all have a unnatural degree of waist suppression, particularly in the back, which I can only imagine is intended to contour the wearer's backside. IMO the only purpose that seems to serve is to make a lot of young men really self conscious about their waists! But thankfully, I think it can be remedied by simply letting out the sides a touch. But why SS starts in that position is beyond me.

    Remainder of Searching_Best_Fit's post I agree with. Lazio fits better on you.
  9. tda003

    tda003 Well-Known Member

    I agree with the others about the length of the jacket. The short look seems to be the fashion currently. However, fashions change from season to season. If you go with what's fashionable , you'll be changing your wardrobe quite often.

    Most of my life, I have been a 40 short. However, a 40 regular always fit me better in the body, especially with the button stance. When I purchased my first MTM jacket, the salesman tried a 40 regular on me which looked good except for the length. He specified the length as per 40 short, but left the body as in a 40 regular and I was very pleased with the result. I wore that blazer until only the buttons were salvageable.

    I've gone through that epistle to suggest that you may wish to try on a 38 regular. That may give you the length and button placement you desire. After all, it costs nothing to try on a suit.

    On the second suit, assuming that you're returning the first one, the back across the shoulders needs to be let out and a bit from the sides. If, as has been suggested, that is the style of SS jackets, then you will probably face the same issue in their regular sizes as well. It's an easy fix.

    If the regular size trick works, you'll likely have many more fabric options.

    Bring someone with you to engage in conversation while you're wearing the suit. Since it's quite hard to concentrate on two things at once, at some point you'll relax. That's the time for a third prty to snap pictures. You'll be able to see what the suit will look like when you're wearing it at work.

    Finally, leave the leg width alone. From what I see, the length is what needs attention. I expect that what is removed will give you plenty of material for a tailor to make adjustable side tabs.
  10. AlanMac

    AlanMac Member

    Many thanks to all who have taken the time to reply - it's really been very informative! I think my stance in the pictures was a bit off. For some reason I find it hard to adopt a natural stance when behind the camera lens - I'm normally more relaxed... I think!

    Regarding the high button stance - I've read a higher stance is good for short men. But this is too high? MattS has suggested about 2" lower. Alphadelta has also picked up on this. The Lazio and Napoli as I understand have a lower BS.

    Alphadelta - jacket too short? The coat does cover my backside entirely and the front falls between my thumb knuckles. I was concerned one sleeve was a little short (same issue on the light blue suit) but I understand this is easily remedied by letting out a little.

    Also Alphadelta, JBierly and Searching_Best_Fit I absolutely take your point on tapering the legs - bad idea. I think the Lazio & Napoli have a wider cuff - which is the direction I'm now going.

    Searching_Best_Fit, yes both jackets are the same length according to the specs.

    Medhat - regarding the sway back - both suits I've posted are of their more 'fitted' models. The Napoli, for the same size, has about an extra 1/2" in the chest and waist. Maybe I'd be better off buying the slightly roomier Napoli and having a tailor add some supression rather than buying too tight and letting out?

    tda003, I did try the 38R length in the shop but it appeared too long - maybe they didn't want the trouble of adjusting it and preferred to sell me the short?

    I now think I'll return the patch pocket suit and try the regular flap-pocket Lazio and Napoli, post some pics and see what people think of them instead? And I'll try and relax in the pics!

    Again thanks to all who replied - it's difficult for me to get face-to-face feedback and it's a bit hit and miss with the sales people - many are well intentioned, but the drainpipe trousers don't inspire confidence! I like tda003's idea of bringing along a second but unfortunately, it's a bit of a trip and this is not an option. My strategy has been to visit the shops, look at the fabric and try various fits - then buy online, try at home and make use of the returns policy!
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2017
  11. ThomGault

    ThomGault Well-Known Member

    Lower button stance will lengthen the lapels which create longer strong vertical visual lines and elongate the torso.
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2017
  12. Searching_Best_Fit

    Searching_Best_Fit Well-Known Member

    Let me elaborate this more based on my observation and experiment.

    There are many contributing factors that causes horizontal creases at the back in these so-called "critique my SuitSupply/Online MTM/hey-I-got-a-new-suit-for-my-xxx fit" cases. The general goal is for slim-fit, and the next result is the short jacket. However, the most important part is: they are all newbies who do not know how to post for a fit picture. Granted, not everyone is professional male model, but many who post in these threads, to some degree, all choose the sway-back posture.

    Imagine that you have a pretty close-fitting jacket, which is built with a correct posture in mind where it contours the body outline of said model. Now, if you extend the stomach/pelvis to the front, curve your lower back and chest back, the waist of the jacket is pushed forward so the back is bent. So the horizontal creases form. Furthermore, if the jacket is short where the buttoning point is higher, which means the waist of jacket sits higher than the perfect location that also squeeze the body waist, this effect of swaying back your body for fit picture causes more creases at your lower back. And that is the reason why so many pictures with horizontal creases at the back.

    So now, with the same slim-fit jacket, if you stand correctly: stomach in, chest naturally straight but not over-extending, head straight, the waist of jacket sits naturally at the waist so your body does not push the jacket forward or back. The jacket can drape naturally so that no creases form at the back. The jacket will fit you, even if you go with shorter jacket, although that is another topic for another day.

    So if the jacket is not that form-fitting, meaning it already has some space front and back, posting with a sway-back posture will not show such effect because the jacket is loose enough. One still posts with a bad posture, but at least the jacket hides the bad posture.
  13. Matt S

    Matt S Well-Known Member

    Short men don't look good in a low button stance because it shortens the legs. A low button stance would be about 3 inches lower than the button stance on the Havana suit pictured, and that would not be good either. You need a button stance that balances your legs and torso. The high button stance gives you longer legs, but at the expense of making your torso look stubby. You need a medium button stance to balance your torso and legs. Something 1.5 inches lower would be ideal, I think. The button stance on the Havana suit is excessively high. The high button stance is best on a short man with short legs. On such a man, the jacket would be longer than the ideal half the body length so it covers the buttocks, but the high button stance (relative to the length of the jacket) helps balance the body.

    ThomGault is correct about longer lapel length helping elongate your torso, which is much needed when I see the suit above. The button stance just needs to be balanced so you get the ideal torso and leg lengths.

    I do not think your jacket is too short, so long as it covers your buttocks. It is the correct length based on your height. Where the hem hits your hand is not a reliable indicator of jacket length.
  14. Fading Fast

    Fading Fast Well-Known Member

    A lot of good advice above. I'd also love to see what a 38R looks on you as that might solve a few issues I see which is that the button stance hits you too high (as noted above) and the jacket is too short IMHO. The second one you showed is much better, but still, you might fit well in a regular size especially as everyone is cutting jackets too short today.

    There seems to be less waist suppression in the second pic, but either could probably be fixed by alteration (i.e., have it taken out a bit). Moving to the 38 reg might help, but might not - either way, the waist can be altered.

    Also, I would echo the above about not tapering your trousers as they are pretty tapered now and suit / dress pants are not suppose to fit like jeans.
  15. AlanMac

    AlanMac Member

    Thanks to the suggestions here, I will include a 38R in my next order. Though that could cause some problems of it's own... If the 38R fits better in the body, it will probably be too long in the arms. Since Suitsupply have decided to include working cuffs on all their suits (a pointless frippery?), that means if I want to keep the proportions I'll have to have the sleeves shortened from the shoulder, right? Though, in the interest of the best possible fit it's an expense I'm prepared to bear.

    As I said earlier, I'll try the more roomy fit too - so I'll probably be taking-in rather than letting-out - I understand this allows the tailor a bit more leeway?

    I won't muck about with leg width either. :)

    I'll post a reply in a week or so when my new order arrives.

    Again, many thanks for all the suggestions and feedback - it really has been a great learning experience.
  16. tda003

    tda003 Well-Known Member

    I originally mentioned going to a regular because the additional jacket length is only about an inch and the pictures suggest, to me, that you can use that inch. Possibly these suits don't follw that standard.
  17. bespokewrinkles

    bespokewrinkles Well-Known Member

    There's some balance issue with the jacket. The Havana cut is supposed to have much more open quarters than this.

    This is one of my Havana jackets:


    If you are standing in your natural posture in your pictures, it could be that your body shape and posture just aren't ideally suited for the cut. The Lazio does look better from the other picture, though you really need to take all pictures from the same angle and distance for them to be comparable.

    RE: the buttoning position: yes it's a bit high on SS products, but this isn't that noticeable in real life, so I live with it.
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2017
  18. AlanMac

    AlanMac Member

    That Havana looks great on you! I love how light and airy it feels. Please read my follow-up below and see what you think...
  19. AlanMac

    AlanMac Member


    Well, I've taken delivery of some more SS stuff and after much measuring and comparison I've come to the conclusion that the Havana and Lazio are almost identical in fit - the Lazio looks to be a bit more nipped in at the waist.

    Thanks to suggestions from members above, I tried the 38R instead of the 38S and think it suits my shape better. It immediately felt more roomy and natural - though the measurements don't suggest there's any difference in chest and waist between short and regular - I think in the short fit the waist is more up around my stomach thus it feels tight? Whilst in the reg fit the waist is closer to my actual waist. Also I think the button stance is much improved - I've gone from 2.5" over navel in the short to about 0.5" over in the regular.

    Length-wise I've done a Flusser and jacket length is almost exactly 50% of distance from collar seam to floor - so technically it's spot-on - and I think it looks better too. I think the longer jacket appears to elongate my torso, making me look taller? I had assumed the opposite was true - that a shorter jacket would make my legs look longer - which is why I'd always tended towards shorter jackets.

    Overall, I think I'm quite happy with the Lazio in the 38R. The jacket sleeves need shortening a little - but there's 1.75" between the last button hole and end of the cuff, so I think it'll actually look better with a bit taken off, especially with the working cuff. I've shelved my idea to shorten from the shoulder. I think the trousers look OK too, aside from needing shortening. And now I have about 3" extra fabric in legs to have side adjusters made.

    Can anybody make any other suggestions on improving fit?

    I'm waiting on a Napoli to try, which I understand is a roomier version of the Lazio. Would it be better/easier to let the waist on the Lazio out slightly or take in the waist on the Napoli?

    Also I'm wondering what the slight creasing in back of jacket over my backside is due to? I'm getting it in both the short and regular fits and in my Havana pics from earlier. Is it a stance thing? I still tend to tighten up a bit in front of the camera :)

    Thanks in advance!

    P.S. I should say I've worn the same pants with both jackets, as both pairs are the same fit (different fabric & colour) excepting length.


    Last edited: Mar 26, 2017
  20. Searching_Best_Fit

    Searching_Best_Fit Well-Known Member

    Kudos to your very good self-analysis on evaluating your fit. As you have concluded, and I agree with you, that the Lazio 38R looks better on you. The 38S Lazio jacket looks a bit short on you.

    Yes, check the following...

    Let me show you what I meant about sway-back posture and compare that with your posture in the pictures.


    Looking at your middle one you can see you have the sway-back forward-pelvis posture. Because your stomach is forward and lower back curve more, the jacket is pushed forward. Furthermore, since the waist is pretty tight with little ease, there are creases formed at your lower back region. That is the reason why you get these creases.

    So now, you can improve the fit. If you try standing in the Normal posture shown in the picture, your stomach should be in and chest raised a bit but not over-erect. Yon can stand taller a bit (< 1 cm?) but your stomach will not put the jacket forward. Try this and re-take the picture from your back to see if you still have the creases formed.

    Please try this and report back if things have improved.

    Attached Files:

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