Suits With Double Breasted Vest?

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by LoneWolf, Jan 11, 2018.

  1. LoneWolf

    LoneWolf Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    United States
    Las Vegas
    Hello All,

    I've been binge-watching Billions on Showtime and really like the 3-piece suits with double-breasted, lapel vests that Paul Giamatti's character wears from time to time in the second season.


    Chuck Rhoades probably has his suits custom made, but I don't earn a New York US Attorney's salary. Anyone have some suggestions for OTR options?

    Thanks in advance.

    Attached Files:

  2. SG_67

    SG_67 Connoisseur

    United States
    I’m not sure that a N.Y. US attorney earns as much as you think.
  3. WA

    WA Honors Member

    United States
    Some people save their money for awhile, to accumulate.
  4. upr_crust

    upr_crust Connoisseur

    United States
    New York
    New York
    For the record, those three-piece suits with double-breasted waistcoats which I own (at least currently - the one which I bought from Tyrwhitt was bought at full price, but I no longer own it) were all bought on sale. The latest acquisition of this kind was featured in the WAYWT thread only yesterday.
  5. Will.pennington7

    Will.pennington7 New Member

    United States
    I had two friends that worked for MW, and often wore suits they purchased through the custom program there, and they had several suits with accompanying DB vests. Not OTR, but not astronomically expensive.
  6. bespokewrinkles

    bespokewrinkles Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    United States
    Los Angeles
    I'm sorry but Paul Giamatti's DB vest is truly awful.

    The reason is length. Most vests these days are too long. But this one goes to the extreme. The hem is almost at his crotch!

    DB vests especially benefit from classical length--that is, just a little bit longer than the natural waist, worn with very, very high rise trousers. The longer the vest is, the worse it looks.

    No modern OTR vest that I know of is of an acceptable cut. Your best bet is to shop vintage.

    Here are some good examples:
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2018
  7. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Thank you for another splendid contribution!

    I couldn't agree more.

    I had missed that detail entirely. It looks truly bizarre in any conventional sense!

    Probably unlikely, but could it have any possible reference to the character's background? It looks vaguely like a garment that might have been traditional among some religious groups.
  8. Mr. B. Scott Robinson

    Mr. B. Scott Robinson Super Member

    Karachi, Pakistan - Bangkok, Thailand
    United States
    Can a man with anything beyond minimal girth pull off a DB waistcoat? Why accentuate a negative characteristic with even more buttons and fabric?

    Maybe that is why Giamatti's waistcoat is absurdly long. He is not a svelte guy and I think a bit short to boot?


  9. StephenRG

    StephenRG Honors Member

    United States
    New York
    The character has - had - inherited wealth.
  10. upr_crust

    upr_crust Connoisseur

    United States
    New York
    New York
    The examples which you showed are with, as you have said, very high-rise trousers - much higher rise trousers than would be acceptable to most consumers in this day and age.

    I agree both that the hem of a double-breasted waistcoat should fall to around the level of the natural waist, and that the waistband of the trousers should be concealed (there seems to be a trend for short waistcoats with low-rise trousers, revealing the trouser waistband and/or one's belt - not a good look, IMHO).

    I agree that Giamatti's waistcoat is much too long, and it can only be styled that way in an attempt to hide excess avoirdupois around his middle, which accentuates him being "vertically challenged" (spoken by someone who, in his senescence, has shrunk to being 5' 8").

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