Morning Coat Lining Question

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by henwortschmidt, Jul 10, 2018.

  1. henwortschmidt

    henwortschmidt New Member

    48
    United States
    Washington
    Seattle
    Hello, I'm having a bespoke morning coat made, and had some questions about lining. I initially wanted to go full lining Bemberg as I usually do, but thought twice with this morning coat because the morning coat will only be worn with a full-backed Bemberg waistcoat, a lining on the back of the coat is redundant?

    My idea is partial lining (but NOT half-lining in the usual sense). So lining in sleeves, all front/chest, plus beneath the two two buttons at the small of the back (since it's a cutaway and the swallowtail lining is visible). The only lining-less part would be the back.

    I know entirely unlined coats have some long-term durability issues, but since the only unlined part is the part that contacts the waistcoat's lining anyway, which will of course always be worn (since it's morning dress), I though I might try this out.

    The idea is to stay as cool as possible. What do you think?

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2018
  2. JBierly

    JBierly Advanced Member

    United States
    Tennessee
    Chattanooga
    I admit I get a bit confused about the exact terminology (buggy lining vs. 1/4 lining - I am wondering if buggy lining is just some proprietary language). Anyhow, I certainly have plenty of higher end garments that have skimpy lining. I would ask your tailor if there is any downside to it (other than it may cost more?) Obviously, you want the shoulders/arms/front of the jacket lined but that is pretty typical unless you are going with a shirt/jacket which is extremely light in construction.
     
    Matt S likes this.
  3. culverwood

    culverwood Super Member

    UK
    SW1
    London
    An alternative if you are determined to go down a no-lining route would be to have a backless waistcoat and lined morning coat.
     
    Matt S likes this.
  4. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Flanders
    I frankly know very little about morning dress as I've never worn it, nor do I expect to. But as to jackets in general, my personal experience is significant, and my universal preference is for a full lining in all jackets.

    I spent many years commuting by public transportation in hot, cold, wet and dry weather. And these commutes would also often entail walks of a mile or so. Such conditions truly tax tailored clothing far more so than getting in and out of a climate controlled auto before entering a climate controlled building. They allow one to fully appreciate the comparative differences in performance between alternatives.

    Until perhaps 35 years ago, 3/4 lined jackets were the norm in U.S. RTW. But when I first wore fully lined jackets I found them more comfortable, and surprisingly also cooler than those with a partial lining. Now I know many here have found the opposite, and I have no desire to doubt them, but that was my admittedly subjective experience.

    The other attribute I found surprising was the full lining also resulted in reduced wrinkling of the jacket during a commute that might include time spent wedged into uncomfortable seats. I suspect this might be a product of the lining being able to move independently to a degree as one moves about and the wrinkles themselves not setting as firmly due to the double thickness.

    Bemberg is a pretty light weight among rayon linings, and were the choice mine it would be such a lining unless there are reasons of propriety to avoid it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
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  5. henwortschmidt

    henwortschmidt New Member

    48
    United States
    Washington
    Seattle
    Based on my experience with backless white tie waistcoats, I wouldn't want that route as they don't really "anchor" onto your torso as a backed one does.
     
  6. JBierly

    JBierly Advanced Member

    United States
    Tennessee
    Chattanooga
    There is something very special about a bespoke waistcoat with a full back. No other garment seems to benefit as much from a perfect fit.
     
  7. son of brummell

    son of brummell Super Member

    United States
    New York
    New York
    A morning coat should be fully lined with a matching color lining.

    You should not call attention to the lining and that you are a maverick at dressing. You would not want to experiment with either a contrasting or jazzy lining because a glimpse of inside tails will be seen. I saw a morning coat with a light lining, and it looked odd. Only the sleeves can have a light or white lining.

    An unlined or buggy lined or quarter lined morning coat would look odd.
     
  8. henwortschmidt

    henwortschmidt New Member

    48
    United States
    Washington
    Seattle
    You ignored my first post, sir, and completely ignored the point of this thread. Please read the content of the post before making pointless remarks. Thank you.
     
  9. derum

    derum Super Member

    United States
    Texas
    Houston
    I would go with the full lining, as this will help maintain the shape and tailoring of the coat.
    The waistcoat should be fully backed also, for similar reasons.
    Is the heat going to be such a problem for the duration you will be required to wear both?
     
  10. son of brummell

    son of brummell Super Member

    United States
    New York
    New York
    I just re-read it.

    Your suggestion is totally weird.

    The coat wouldn't lie right. But, heck, try it; it's your coat.
     

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