Lady Bespoke Cutter

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by Flanderian, Jul 10, 2018.

  1. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Flanders
    The cutter is the crux of the bespoke process, and arguably the highest skill level among the team which builds your suit. They do the measurements, interpret their customer's wishes, and create the template from which the suit is created. While men's bespoke tailoring has previously been dominated by male cutters, this is changing with young, talented and passionate women picking up the calling. And one such is interviewed below.

    http://www.keikari.com/english/an-interview-with-claudia-chan-deans/


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    Different bespoke tailors employ differing methods of making. Some are still one-man businesses with the cutter and tailor being the proprietor and doing all or most of the work themselves. As firms grow larger, greater specialization in the process occurs with larger firms employing many individuals to make your clothing.

    Below are a couple of videos showing Anderson & Sheppard's method which takes us through the process from measurement to first fitting. It's interesting to note they have separate cutters for jacket and trousers, each taking separate measurements, and cutting their own pattern. I was a little dismayed by the rather robust gentleman who is the jacket cutter as I found the cut of his own clothing a bit close and skimpy, not showing his love handles to their best advantage. You'll note however this is not true of other cutters, and seems to be an issue of personal preference.

    But when you get to the first fitting you learn he's served his customer well, as did his colleague the trouser cutter. Though I did snicker a bit to see the waistcoat made with an adjustable back belt, as my tailor insisted they were unnecessary as his were made to fit. ;)





     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
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  2. Oldsarge

    Oldsarge Moderator and Bon Vivant

    On the banks of the Willamette
    United States
    Oregon
    Oak Grove
    Unfortunately, I am not 'made-to-fit' and a certain amount of adjustability in my clothing is desirable.:oops:
     
  3. derum

    derum Senior Member

    875
    United States
    Texas
    Houston
  4. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Flanders
    I don't believe I have a Savile Row body any longer. :(

    Can't stand to imagine the look of disappointment and despair on my cutter's face upon our introduction.
     
  5. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Flanders
    So what if a Hong Kong tailor can make you a suit overnight, this fellow does it in three minutes! ;)

     
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  6. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Flanders
    Thank you for that! Very enjoyable.

    In my limited experience I've found that house styles, if not determinative, bear strongly on what one should expect. And a good deal can be learned from observing what cutters and salesmen themselves wear.

    Like this little puff piece for the business as you can see distinct flavors in each representative's own clothing.


     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
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