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Jacket length

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by Dr. Pain, Aug 12, 2017.

  1. Dr. Pain

    Dr. Pain New Member

    66
    United States
    Virginia
    Charlottesville
    Hi again

    So the jacket lengths have been going up and up lately. I've heard many different methods and formulas for jacket length.

    1. take your height in inches and divide by two. I am 5'7" or 67 inches. That would be a jacket of at least 33 inches which appears way too long.
    What length would be ideal for me?

    2. Always cover your bum.

    3. The length should not exceed the base of the thumb to the first knuckle of the Thumb. (ie. From your first metacarpal joint to your proximal phalangeal joint).

    4. Certain designers for example Tom Ford's Windsor jacket seems to be longer than their Shelton jacket ( in the same size). Many criticized Daniel Craig's jackets in the James Bond movies because they appear to be too short. I spoke with a sales associate at a Tom Ford store in Miami who told me that they were trying to achieve a balance/ proper proportion secondary to his height. "Technically, the jacket length should be approximately half the height of the distance between the point that is the base of your neck down to the ground. "

    5. Cupped fingers method

    What method or formula do you recommend ?
     
  2. SG_67

    SG_67 Connoisseur

    United States
    Illinois
    Chicago
    I want it to just cover my rear end. That's the starting point at least.
     
  3. JBierly

    JBierly Super Member

    United States
    Tennessee
    Chattanooga
    1) I think you have to take out your neck and head length first - then cut your torso in half. Of course that assumes your legs aren't overly short or long in relation to your torso.

    2) Best indicator

    3) No shorter than that assuming your arms are normal length

    4) Windsor is probably his most classic jacket. O'Conner or Y is the Craig model and is a still not overly short although it does require a decent drop between waist and jacket (8 inches) to fit. Size up also. I like the O'Conner because it fits me well off the rack. See Matt S blog on the Craig jacket to get a better understanding of why his jackets were a bit too tight.

    5) No longer than that

    In summary - there is too short and there is too long and then there is some wiggle room (perhaps 2 inches or so where it looks ok). I am 71 inches height and 30.5 to 31 is usually perfect for me. 29 is too short and 32 is too long.
     
  4. drlivingston

    drlivingston Connoisseur

    United States
    of
    America
    When we are discussing jacket lengths, I like to make sure that we are talking about the same measurement. Are you speaking of overall length (top to bottom) of the jacket? Or are you talking about measuring from the bottom of the collar to the bottom? A 33" BOC measured jacket on a 5'7" frame is going to look like a car coat.
     
  5. never behind

    never behind Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    237
    United States
    IN
    Zionsville
    I have T-Rex arms so I just try to have it cover my bum. That gives a good balance for me.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Flanders
    I prefer that it cover the backside and crotch. And it should comprise roughly half the height of the individual. Exceptions are needed where the man is unusually long bodied and short legged, or tall with long legs. I prefer that in the first case the jacket cover the torso as described to the minimum extent necessary, which may result in the jacket length slightly exceeding half the height. Particularly tall men with very long legs may need to wear their jackets somewhat below their rump and crotch to approach half their full height.
     
  7. Matt S

    Matt S Connoisseur

    United States
    NY
    New York
    This is it. Ideally it is half the height of the individual, with concessions made for the long-torsoed man who needs a longer jacket to cover his buttocks. But I don't know how a jacket is expected to cover the crotch unless it is double-breasted. Even jackets with closed quarters will still reveal the crotch in front because there is going to be a little curve.
     
  8. Flanderian

    Flanderian Connoisseur

    United States
    New Jersey
    Flanders
    Perhaps some guys have a shorter crotch! :biggrin:

    But seriously, it depends upon how the fellow is built.


    Edit: Realized I used a poor choice of terms; rather than saying "cover" I was attempting to describe a length that would be to the bottom of the crotch, though you correctly point out it that it doesn't actually cover it. On most of my trousers this roughly corresponds with the bottom of the trouser fly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2017
  9. Searching_Best_Fit

    Searching_Best_Fit Senior Member

    679
    Canada
    Ontario
    Mississauga
    Follow these two guidelines in sequence of importance and you are good to go. The jacket hem should cover your bums, and it should be closed to (+/- 1" IMO) the half point of distance from your nape (bone at the back of your neck) to ground. My comments for the rest are:

    1) that is totally wrong. it is not the half of a full height (legs, torso, neck and head), it is the half height from nape to ground (back of neck bone to ground). This point is also the origin of how a suit jacket is built from when a pattern is drafted. In addition, when talking about jacket length, the convention is to measure from this point (bottom of collar on center seam), to the hem, not the top of the collar.

    3) and 5) are incorrect due to the fact that people have different arm/torso/legs lengths. For people with short arms and longer torso, to satisfy these rules that hem will not cover your rears, and that is the most important rule to follow. If the hem of a jacket does not cover your rears, you are wearing a women's suit jacket.
     
  10. WA

    WA Honors Member

    United States
    WA
    Bellingham
    A useful formula for guys is, half the body height (inches) minus 4 inches, for starter. After that, it is whatever makes the guy look good. Therefore, some longer and others shorter. Moving pockets up or down, waistlines, lapel point, width of lapels and other shaping details to give a balanced look and draw attention away from... etc..

    Then there are other reasons for clothes. Sometimes the person wants the garment to make him look horrible, or something else. Which is a whole nother subject of the tailors world. Especially movies, theaters, shows, whatever.
     

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