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Custom/bespoke v. MTM

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by ziggy, Jul 14, 2006.

  1. Will

    Will Honors Member

    United States
    Ca
    San francisco
    There are three areas where bespoke offers more than made to measure. None of them are clearly better all the time, but they usually are.

    First, your choice of cloth. For bespoke you can choose from anything that's in inventory at your tailor or available from fabric suppliers. MTM, on the other hand, is usually restricted to the cloth inventoried by the supplier and that tends to be similar to what's available on the rack.

    Secondly, the MTM factory will have limits on the features it offers and bespoke has none. As an extreme example, you may want a belted shooting jacket with plus fours. That's an easy bespoke request that won't be accommodated by many MTM suppliers.

    Finally, construction and that includes fit. You'll usually get more hand work from bespoke, such as hand sewing of the internal canvas, and that results in an easier fit.

    So while the first suit from a new bespoke tailor may have a small fit flaw or two (for example, while the sleeves of my first suit from a London independent bound slightly at the elbow - creating wrinkles - the second suit had slightly larger sleeves and no more wrinkles), they are unlikely to be so large as to overcome the first and second advantages.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2006
  2. Tomasso

    Tomasso Advanced Member

    I don't think that quality of make(construction/handwork) is at issue in the comparison of MTM and Bespoke. There are MTM makers(Kiton, Brioni,Oxxford,etc.) whose quality of make is as good or better than the finest bespoke. And, there are Bespoke makers that produce a heavily machined garment.
     
  3. mrchapel

    mrchapel Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    255
    United States
    CA
    Riverside
    This is essentially the same thing. Most MTM shops can accomadate any fabric; so long as you provide it. Either way, you're paying for the fabric.
     
  4. Will

    Will Honors Member

    United States
    Ca
    San francisco
    "Most MTM shops can accomadate any fabric; so long as you provide it."

    Some will. Brooks Brothers, for example, won't take your fabric because they don't want the responsibility.

    In the end the only consistent difference is the bespoke pattern.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2006
  5. mrchapel

    mrchapel Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    255
    United States
    CA
    Riverside
    Hence the reason I said MOST. Not all. Thank you for repeating my point, Will.
     
  6. WA

    WA Honors Member

    United States
    WA
    Bellingham
    Mtm is sellsmen taking measurements and sending it off to a factory. The only fitting is for sleeve length and same for legs. This is far from bespoke tailoring and the like.
     

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