Building a Solid Shoe Foundation

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by never behind, Sep 8, 2017.

  1. never behind

    never behind New Member

    84
    United States
    IN
    Zionsville
    I've ignorantly and haphazardly bought (mostly poor fitting) shoes over the past 10-15 years. Over the past year I've learned a lot (thanks to you all) and am trying to be thoughtful about what to buy next. I have 3 pair of AE oxfords, a pair of boat shoes and a pair of AE Wilberts (which are looking rough and frankly I've never liked that much). I wear a sport coat/odd trouser to work daily with a suit maybe once a quarter. I figure I don't need another pair of oxfords (although the new shoe thread isn't helping). I'd like to find something that works with the business casual outfit while also working with casual (jeans) for Fridays at work and the weekend.

    Based on my readings, it seems some next steps would be a longwing derby and/or a chukka boot in a brown. Similar to these.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Would these two options (or similar) fit my goal? Is there some other basic I should consider instead?

    Do these need rubber soles? I don't go outside much at work unless I want, so I can avoid weather most of the time. Is there some norm of when you go leather sole vs rubber sole?

    The whole "wear boots with dress clothes" thing is new to me. Are chukkas a year-round option or just winter? For business casual/casual do you do leather, suede or something else? I honestly feel pretty lost here. Chukkas appear to be a super versatile shoe but should I just ignore boots for now?

    I appreciate the indulgence of my ramblings. Thanks to you guys I have properly fitting dress shirts and a solid foundation of some high quality, properly tailored sport coats. There is hope for Neanderthals after all! :)


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  2. SG_67

    SG_67 Connoisseur

    United States
    Illinois
    Chicago
    For pure versatility, you can't beat a Chukka boot. My preference is suede but calfskin or shell cordovan are just as appropriate.

    As for the sole, rubber or leather, but if synthetic, I'd avoid a chunky commando sole. Dainite is a better option.
     
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  3. RogerP

    RogerP Connoisseur

    Canada
    ON
    Oakville
    Those are both solid choices. Chukkas rule for ultimate versatility and can definitely be worn year round. I barely consider them to be boots.

    The main advantages of synthetic soles are superior foul weather traction and increased wear resistance. If those aren't priorities for you then you will no doubt be happy with leather.
     
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  4. JBierly

    JBierly Super Member

    United States
    Tennessee
    Chattanooga
    Chukka in suede for sure.
     
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  5. eagle2250

    eagle2250 Connoisseur - Moderator

    Harmony, FL
    United States
    Florida
    Harmony
    While I have pairs of Alden Chukkas in snuff and sand suede(s), I also have RM Williams Chukkas crafted in chestnut kangaroo hide. The kangaroo hide chukkas seem to see a lot more wear time than the snuff and sand suede designs. Persona; preference, I guess? o_O
     
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  6. RogerP

    RogerP Connoisseur

    Canada
    ON
    Oakville
    I could not disagree more.

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. drlivingston

    drlivingston Connoisseur

    United States
    of
    America
    Those are ridiculously sexy.
     
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  8. RogerP

    RogerP Connoisseur

    Canada
    ON
    Oakville
    That's a fair observation regarding my rotation - none of my shoes are beat to death. But the pair shown above have been worn many, many times - and the vamp creasing is as "bad" as it's going to get. That is something that is set after the first few wears - it does not get progressively worse with age (assuming use of trees and general good care).

    Probably my most frequently (and harshly) worn pair of shoes are my Bonafe chukkas (shown below in the midst of an alpine hike). I have no complaints with how they have held up.

    That said, I'm not disputing your personal preference for textured leathers or suede (I like those too!) - but I just have really had NO issue with undue creasing in smooth calf on various "long vamp" shoes and boots over a great many years.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. numbercrunch

    numbercrunch Starting Member

    8
    Canada
    Ontario
    Markham
    Any thoughts about suede chukkas if there is risk of snow? In Canada it's a real risk as fall goes into full swing. If I only could have one pair of chukkas in my Canadian closet, what leather should I get?


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  10. RogerP

    RogerP Connoisseur

    Canada
    ON
    Oakville
    Snow won't present a problem so long as the suede is properly protected - Tarrago Nanoprotector and Saphir Invulner do an amazing job at repelling water and snow melt.

    Salt on the other hand - you'll want to avoid that. If you're walking through slushy city streets then suede is not the best choice. To be perfectly candid - salty slush is bad for everything save synthetics.

    For one-pair all weather wear nothing beats CXL in terms of natural leathers. Grain comes next.

    PS - Actually genuine Zug leather (Heather Gorse - an oil and wax-infused grain) is really tops, but near impossible to find.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2017
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  11. SG_67

    SG_67 Connoisseur

    United States
    Illinois
    Chicago
    Properly treated suede is very durable. I've never had issues with snow.

    Even salt just brushes out provided the leather was not soaked through with salty sludge.

    And no more talk of snow! I'm trying to enjoy what's left of this summer.
     
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  12. eagle2250

    eagle2250 Connoisseur - Moderator

    Harmony, FL
    United States
    Florida
    Harmony
    I would second RogerP's endorsement of Tarrago Nanoprotector to seal and protect your suedes from staining and damage by moisture, but would not recommend wearing suede shoes during a Canadian or a Northern US winter. A smooth calf chukka would prove more versatile for year round wear in your situation. Good luck in the hunt.
     
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  13. never behind

    never behind New Member

    84
    United States
    IN
    Zionsville
    Note made on the nanoprotector.


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