Very high cutaway collars?

[Audi S5 TC]

Originally Posted by Svenn

Well, I found the perfect collar! unfortunately it's on a european website with a minimum shirt cost of like $200... but here it is, the "high elysee" :


http://www.listerouge-paris.com/styles/styles.php




I'm really getting frustrated here. This is f-king ridiculous that there's like tens of thousands of shirt companies out there selling millions of different styles, but it never occurred to anyone to make a cutaway collar higher. I can't believe how unoriginal most guys are- they'll fiddle around nitpicking about the the frick'n buttons on their cuffs or some crap with their shoes- but it never occurs to anyone to change the second thing most people look at after your face- your collar!! ugh, i'm thinking about getting some fabric and doing the sewing myself, then i'll rip off the collar of some walmart shirt and sew mine on... all for 19.95... success!

Which one of those collars is best with the following six types of suits listed below?

1. Double breasted jacket with a double breasted vest
2. Double breasted jacket with a single breasted vest
3. Double breasted jacket with no vest
4. Single breasted jacket with a double breasted vest
5. Single breasted jacket with a single breasted vest
6. Single breasted jacket with no vest

I am guessing the Elysee, Italian and Venetian collars are best for the six types of suits listed above. However, I do NOT know that for a fact. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong? Thank you dearly and sincerely in advance!

[Svenn]

Originally Posted by udeshi

beat me to it CuffDaddy.

The High Elysee won't be high enough for you, you probably want at least two inches in the back collar height, the Liste Rouge will be less than that. We used to do them with 2' bands. Also look at Roger Moore in the Man with the golden gun, he wears a high collar in that I believe.

You're a shirt maker udeshi? did you find you had to greatly increase the "point length" when you raised the band up 2'' ?

[udeshi]

Svenn - depends how long the point length was to start with, physique and personal preference of the wearer. 3.5' total should do it. Our standard collars are 2' high and have 3.5' point length on the cutaway collar. For full effect you would probably need 2 3/8' high collar band at the back.

[Svenn]

Thanks Udeshi. It's completely unrelated, but I found this photo below from 1905 when the Russians were forced to negotiate with the Japanese after their defeat in the Russo-Japanese War. I noted the high-collared Russian second from the left (that's a little to high for me), but was most humored by the fact that every delegate there has a mustache!

[Friedrichsen]

Not to hijack or anything, but I love the fabric and cut of the suit(Prince of Kent)- I gots to get me one of those

[raumil]

Originally Posted by udeshi

Svenn - depends how long the point length was to start with, physique and personal preference of the wearer. 3.5' total should do it. Our standard collars are 2' high and have 3.5' point length on the cutaway collar. For full effect you would probably need 2 3/8' high collar band at the back.

Wow. I really love the fact that your standard shirts have a 2 inch high back. I could only wish all shirtmakers used this standard.

[raumil]

Originally Posted by udeshi

beat me to it CuffDaddy.

The High Elysee won't be high enough for you, you probably want at least two inches in the back collar height, the Liste Rouge will be less than that. We used to do them with 2' bands. Also look at Roger Moore in the Man with the golden gun, he wears a high collar in that I believe.

You are absolutely right Mr. Udeshi. Roger wears a collar at least two inches tall throughout the entire movie, his shirts also have two darts in the lower back. He's tailor Douglas Hayward made them for him.

Another thing about Liste Rouge useless you go to their NY location and get measure by their people you might not get what you want.

[raumil]

here is a pic...........

[DukeGrad]

Gentlemen

He does a very beautiful, elegant cutaway!!
Needs to get online, so we can buy

Jimmy

[PJC in NoVa]

Originally Posted by Svenn

Thanks Udeshi. It's completely unrelated, but I found this photo below from 1905 when the Russians were forced to negotiate with the Japanese after their defeat in the Russo-Japanese War. I noted the high-collared Russian second from the left (that's a little to high for me), but was most humored by the fact that every delegate there has a mustache!

Not that it's anything more than tangentially related to the thread topic or anything, but IIRC getting this particular set of suited-and-booted, high-collared blokes together was why Teddy Roosevelt became the first U.S. president to win a Nobel Peace Prize.

[Matt S]

Originally Posted by raumil

You are absolutely right Mr. Udeshi. Roger wears a collar at least two inches tall throughout the entire movie, his shirts also have two darts in the lower back. He's tailor Douglas Hayward made them for him.

Another thing about Liste Rouge useless you go to their NY location and get measure by their people you might not get what you want.

Sir Roger's shirts I believe were made by Frank Foster. His collars were very tall in the back, but not extraordinarily tall in the front. He just had long collar points. By the 80s, his collars still still had the tall height in the back and long points, but the front height was normal. They sit fairly low on his neck.

[Svenn]

Originally Posted by Matt S

His collars were very tall in the back, but not extraordinarily tall in the front.

I'm trying to do the opposite- relatively tall in the back but about 1 inch higher up on my throat than normal in the front. I asked mytailor to do it, we'll see if they can. I think it will require a flared collar band, not like the usual straight ones that are the same height all around the neck.

[udeshi]

Yes Frank Foster made some of the Moore shirts.

[Pipps]

Originally Posted by deanayer

Prince Michael of Kent (or "P-MOK" as he is known in the hood) is kind of a one-off so I would say its very unlikely you would ever find this guy's shirts on the rack somewhere. ...
As for the tie knot - its not big, its P-MOK huge, the ties must be 70" long and custom as well.

Brilliant!

[raumil]

If you are looking for a tall collar cut-away shirt for less than $70.00 try the Hawes and Curtis, Curtis line cut-away. Here is a pic:




http://www.hawesandcurtis.com/mens-f...-ref_MS-YO2662

It is $70.00 including shipping and it will get here from England in about 4 days. I have it and it is nice. The fabric is poplin and is kind of thin (you can see a little of the undershirt). The collar is 2 inches on the back. It is slim fit and in has two darts on the lower back. Around your kidney area. It comes in a nice box and it has extra plastic collar-stays. Sometimes they have sales and the shirts go for about $40.00 without shipping.

[raumil]

Originally Posted by Matt S

Sir Roger's shirts I believe were made by Frank Foster.

Didn't know that, thanks.

[Svenn]

SUCCESS!! THANKS RAUMIL

The Hawes and Curtis 'York Slim Fit' you recommended and the 'Hurst Slim Fit' I found myself arrived in the mail today and the look is PERFECT! It's not quite as extreme as the Prince of Kent but it is quite high and dignified looking, IMHO it adds a distinctive and dignified look that will add a subtle gravitas to my overall appearance. I will post pics later (because I actually ordered one size too big, so it'll be a week before the right ones arrive)

A happy end to this thread!

[mt_spiffy]

Originally Posted by Svenn

I found these, but they're a bit pricey and in the UK plus it's not clear how you order them :

http://www.ajkwafo.com/scripts/prodV...?idproduct=694

I LOVE these. www.verse9neckwear.com has similar 3 button shirts.

[Jack2000]

I've gotten a number of high two button collars from Jantzen tailor. They get a lot of mixed reviews, but I've had good success with them.

[hockeyinsider]

Originally Posted by deanayer

Prince Michael of Kent (or "P-MOK" as he is known in the hood) is kind of a one-off so I would say its very unlikely you would ever find this guy's shirts on the rack somewhere. Collars that high scream "custom" but its debatable whether or not they scream "good idea". If you really want collars that high I would make sure that you have the neck for them and that you are willing to show that much collar above the back of your jacket collar.

As for the tie knot - its not big, its P-MOK huge, the ties must be 70" long and custom as well.

He may not be able to afford them any longer. He is selling family heirlooms because Her Majesty the Queen is being forced by the Labour government to charge him rent for his apartment at Kensington Palace. The heirlooms are being auctioned by Christie's of London, and there are some very good deals.

[hockeyinsider]

Originally Posted by Svenn

I found these, but they're a bit pricey and in the UK plus it's not clear how you order them :

http://www.ajkwafo.com/scripts/prodV...?idproduct=694

Those shirts are something -- I'm just not sure what that something is. I had a two-button collared shirt a couple years ago when Lands' End was selling them.

[hockeyinsider]

It appears as if HRH Prince Michael of Kent is fond of high collars even in non-traditional clothing:

http://photos.thefirstpost.co.uk/ass...1491722800.jpg

I'd also say that he is rather thrifty; note one sleeve of this double-breasted blazer has three buttons while the other has two:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz...and--wife.html

[Srynerson]

Originally Posted by hockeyinsider

I'd also say that he is rather thrifty; note one sleeve of this double-breasted blazer has three buttons while the other has two:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz...and--wife.html

It's difficult to tell from the picture, but I think he may just be leaving the first button of the left sleeve undone.

ADDENDUM: Although this does create an interesting "Captain-Kirk-Destroys-A-Computer-Using-A-Logic-Problem" moment for those who believe that only despicable nouveau riche cads unbutton their surgeon cuffs -- either (A) Prince Michael has lost a button off his sleeve but is still walking around in public wearing a damaged jacket(!); or (B) Prince Michael is wearing a jacket with poorly made sleeve buttonholes that allow the buttons to accidentally come undone(!!); or (C) Prince Michael has unbuttoned his sleeve in public!!!

[CuffDaddy]

Originally Posted by Srynerson

"those who believe that only despicable nouveau riche cads unbutton their surgeon cuffs"

A thoroughly ridiculous proposition, as you obviously understand.