Spectular Hand Pressing a Suit Thread at SF

[gentleman amateur]

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=88504

jefferyd has posted yet another excellent thread on suits, this time at SF. This thread is certainly on par with his AAAC HOF thread on suit canvassing and complements Alex' excellent advice on caring for shirts.

[Hector Freemantle]

I honestly find this overstates the importance of pressing. Surely the key to a well- fitting suit that drapes properly and fits the body properly is primarily down to the skill of the tailor that cut and sewed the cloth. If a well-cut and well-made suit can withstand being caught in the rain and severly drenched, which indeed it can, then isn't it just scare-mongering to suggest that we are doing irrepaerable harm when we steam and hang in steamy bathroom to remove wrinkles? The benefits of gentle steaming surely outweigh the hazards. I, for one ,will not be attempting to become a dab hand at handling a steam iron and an ironing board.

[jefferyd]

My stemware came with the admonition that I should not put it in the dishwasher, and while I find it far more convenient to do just that, I will assume that Baccarat knows more about crystal than I do and I will follow their advice. But that's just me.

As the tailor who made the suit shown in the post, I can tell you that it is not just cutting and sewing that make a suit, but a skillful pressing during and after the construction. I had the impression that people who frequented these fora were genuinely interested in well-made and well-maintained clothing. It appears I may have been mistaken.

[DorianGrey]

I don't know if I really agree with this article. I have a good home steamer that I have used for many years. I have always had good luck using it on my tailored garments to remove wrinkles and freshen the garment up. The only "bad" thing that ever happed was a seam on the breast pocket puckered on one of my suits. I took the suit to my tailor who pressed it right out. And I always have had good luck steaming pants.

[Orsini]

My stemware came with the admonition that I should not put it in the dishwasher, and while I find it far more convenient to do just that, I will assume that Baccarat knows more about crystal than I do and I will follow their advice. But that's just me.

As the tailor who made the suit shown in the post, I can tell you that it is not just cutting and sewing that make a suit, but a skillful pressing during and after the construction. I had the impression that people who frequented these fora were genuinely interested in well-made and well-maintained clothing. It appears I may have been mistaken.

Thank you for the article. I will go forth sadder and wiser and steam with caution.

[MBK]

Wow, this is great information. I'm going to have to totally rethink how I work with my jackets.

[jefferyd]

I honestly find this overstates the importance of pressing. Surely the key to a well- fitting suit that drapes properly and fits the body properly is primarily down to the skill of the tailor that cut and sewed the cloth.

Have a look at this post on the London Lounge;

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...153&highlight=

You will get an idea of what might be done before a stitch is ever sewn. This sort of manipulation goes on throughout the whole tailoring process. Aside from blowing and puckering seams, random steam undoes all the type of work that is pictured. You might have a better understanding about why we feel so strongly about it.

[Neal@NY]

I thank the poster as well. I learned a few things I didn't know and will be more careful in the future.
Neal@NY

[robb01]

Quality post, I learned a lot from that thread

[NoPleats]

What's with the "puffy" shoulder seams on that coat? Was that done on purpose or are the sleeves just tacked up there for photographic purposes, somehow making them look like that?

[rta]

+1; I need to print this out and re-read it

[Hector Freemantle]

My stemware came with the admonition that I should not put it in the dishwasher, and while I find it far more convenient to do just that, I will assume that Baccarat knows more about crystal than I do and I will follow their advice. But that's just me.

I don't think this is a particularly good comparison. I'm talking about gentle steaming - a slight increase in humidity to stimulate those fibres a bit. Or perhaps suits should only be worn in humidity controlled environments.

[jefferyd]

Someone asked me to do this. Keep in mind that on a fused suit or more heavy goods it would far less apparent, but here is a before and after. I used the "steamer" function of my Rowenta home iron as if I were trying to remove wrinkles. Draw your own conclusions.




Here's a sleeve; the seam has blown and puckered and the front breaks because the undersleeve is longer than the topsleeve which has been stretched into a curve during making but relaxed during steaming.

[Jim In Sunny So Calif]

Thank you for all the helpful information Jefferyd.

Cheers, Jim.

[gentleman amateur]

Someone asked me to do this. Keep in mind that on a fused suit or more heavy goods it would far less apparent, but here is a before and after. I used the "steamer" function of my Rowenta home iron as if I were trying to remove wrinkles. Draw your own conclusions.




Here's a sleeve; the seam has blown and puckered and the front breaks because the undersleeve is longer than the topsleeve which has been stretched into a curve during making but relaxed during steaming.

Thanks. The visual evidence helps a lot. I have a cleaner hand press my suits which I brush, hang, and rotate after each wear. Thanks to your info I'll try hand pressing myself. But no Jiffy Steamer for Christmas as originally planned.

[NoPleats]

Nobody has any ideas regarding the ridiculous shoulder seams on the sport coat in that thread? That can NOT be the effect the tailor or the client wanted.

[rgrpark]

Nobody has any ideas regarding the ridiculous shoulder seams on the sport coat in that thread? That can NOT be the effect the tailor or the client wanted.

It's called "roped shoulder". It's intentional.
http://men.style.com/fashion/blogs/s...amaticall.html

[jefferyd]

Nobody has any ideas regarding the ridiculous shoulder seams on the sport coat in that thread? That can NOT be the effect the tailor or the client wanted.

If the rope is that to which you referred, then as both the tailor who made the suit and the client for whom it was intended, I can assure you that it was very much intentional. Nor is it all that uncommon- you may not be accustomed to seeing it as it is usually only done on higher-end garments, being more difficult to make, much as the oft-maligned "spalla camicia".

[NoPleats]

It's called "roped shoulder". It's intentional.
http://men.style.com/fashion/blogs/s...amaticall.html

Really? Well. That's really...something, isn't it?

[jefferyd]

Really? Well. That's really...something, isn't it?

It's affected. The one in that photo is; it's meant to be very apparent that the suit is made by hand and thus very expensive.

But here's the deal with the rope. Jackets you are used to seeing in the US with their natural shoulder (or some semblance thereof) are very loose, baggy jackets. When you cut a jacket close to the body (as many people around here prefer, and certainly the Italians prefer this) the armhole must be raised very high and you must cut a larger sleeve otherwise you wouldn't be able to move. The "spalla camicia" is one version (search on it if you are interested), the rope shoulder is even more generous and thus more comfortable. Not to everyone's taste, bust most people, having worn one once, never go back.

[Scoundrel]

Interesting. I'll have to give this a try. Thanks for sharing.