Blazers! Blazers! Blazers! (pics)...

[Doctor Damage]

For some time now I’ve been accumulating images of men wearing different types of blazers in a variety of settings, and this thread is intended to share those images. I don’t have a particular purpose in mind, although if the images spark discussion and add to the “marketplace of ideas” then I will have done my part.

The plan is to post the following:
1. post a general discussion on the origins of the blazer,
2. post images of reefer jackets,
3. post images of double-breasted blazers, &
4. post images of single-breasted blazers.

Throughout I have chosen images which illustrate the bewildering variety of buttoning configurations, and other variations of details, to demonstrate how blazers come in many different shapes and forms.

Enjoy!

DocD

[Doctor Damage]

Origins of the Blazer

On the origins of the blazer we are usually presented with either the oft-related story of the captain of the HMS Blazer or something about midshipmen hauling in sails. Frankly, I don’t believe either story (neither does Lenius or Boyer, and others too), although I do agree the origins of the blazer are nautical. Boyer describes the modern blazer as a stylized version of the “reefer” jacket which I shall address later in this post.

But first, let’s dispose of the two most famous stories about the blazer.

HMS Blazer

My readings on Royal Navy uniforms and equipment of Nelson’s era put the kibosh to both the HMS Blazer and the midshipmen versions of the blazer story. The fact is Royal Navy seamen wore short jackets with gold buttons during the Nelson era, and occasionally much earlier, but not during the Victorian period. Blue became the universal colour for seamen’s jackets sometime in the middle of the 18th century. Jackets that we would consider familiar were commonly worn by seamen as walking-out or shore attire for fighting ashore and wooing the charming ladies of the ports. These jackets were short and had two or three rows of small gold buttons, sometimes in great number, usually worn unbuttoned. Sleeve cuffs had buttons and “mariner’s cuffs”, in essence surgeon’s cuffs but with larger attached flaps. However, by the time Victoria ascended the throne, seamen were typically uniformed in the archetypical “square rig” uniform, although this was technically not adopted as a prescribed uniform for seamen until 1857. Thus it is highly unlikely Victoria would have seen seamen wearing jackets that resemble the modern blazer or any dress other than square rig.

(As an interesting sidebar, Nelson-era seaman tailored their own clothes on board from bolts of cloth procured through the Admiralty for this purpose. For some reason, checked shirts became extremely popular among seaman and were even aped by landlubbers wishing to look a bit more...nautical. So the check shirt, which we usually associate with British country sports, especially equestrian, had other associations as well.)

Midshipmen

Officers and midshipmen—teenage boys getting a start on an officer’s career in the navy with on-the-job training—wore jackets with long tails throughout the 19th century. In the Nelson era these resembled modern “cutaways”, while in the Victorian period these evolved into full-skirted frock coats. None of these jackets resembled the modern blazer. Therefore the modern blazer did not originate with jackets worn by midshipmen.

Reefer Jackets

As I noted at the start of this post, Boyer describes the modern blazer as a stylized version of the “reefer” jacket, allegedly named after a certain group of seamen who reefed in sails. Does this story have credence? I believe it does and here’s why:

The reefer jacket is a double-breasted jacket buttoning 6X3 and traditionally worn for nautical and sailing activities by civilians. The term “reefer jacket” also describes the jacket worn today by Royal Navy petty officers (senior ranks) as full dress. These jackets are as the civilian jacket described above, but with gold RN buttons and three small gold buttons placed horizontally on each sleeve, a design which has not changed substantially since the 19th century. The modern reefer jacket worn today by Royal Navy petty officers can be traced (at least visually) back to the short jackets commonly worn by Nelson’s sailors. Petty officers—often known in early days by their job titles, such as coxswains and boatswains, for example—originally wore clothing similar to seamen. When the square rig uniform was adopted for seamen, petty officers continued to wear short jackets.

Since 1889, Royal Navy officers have worn jackets with eight gold buttons in two rows, called “monkey jackets”. These were originally introduced as undress jackets (until recently full dress jackets always had tails). Monkey jackets are worn buttoned right up (buttoning 8X4), although some officers in WWII wore them with the top button undone (probably for reasons similar to the “fifty mission crush” sported by USAF officers in the same war). Officers continue to wear the eight button monkey jacket today, but in contrast to petty officer’s reefer jackets use gold braid to show rank and have no cuff buttons.

Thus modern naval officer’s jackets, which so closely resemble modern blazers, actually began as quite different garments which eventually evolved to resemble the jackets traditionally worn by petty officers. Indeed, the garment which became the modern petty officer’s jacket shows the greatest continuity throughout its history of any Royal Navy jacket and is the most likely antecedent of the modern blazer.

Ultimately, I think Boyer was spot on when he said the problem with blazers lies with misuse of the word “blazer”, not the jackets themselves. Originally referring to the brightly hued and striped jackets worn by England’s rowing teams and schoolboys, over time the word “blazer” broadened to include solid-coloured jackets with metal buttons and today, in a particularly unfortunate misappropriation of the word, includes odd jackets of nearly any kind.

But now, on to the images!

DocD

[Doctor Damage]

Reefer Jackets

First off are reefer jackets, from early civilian versions to current-day stylized examples, over the period of the 20th century.





Here is a pattern for a reefer jacket (left). Note the "mariner's cuffs" with three horizontal cuff buttons.



Note that reefer jackets are still worn today by the officers and commodores of the more traditional yacht clubs in North America. Below are some examples (I can't remember the yacht club in the photo). Note the large black buttons instead of gold.

[Gruto]

Origins of the Blazer
Ultimately, I think Boyer was spot on when he said the problem with blazers lies with misuse of the word “blazer”, not the jackets themselves. Originally referring to the brightly hued and striped jackets worn by England’s rowing teams and schoolboys, over time the word “blazer” broadened to include solid-coloured jackets with metal buttons and today, in a particularly unfortunate misappropriation of the word, includes odd jackets of nearly any kind.
DocD

Thanks, a short reply:

The DB blazer comes from the reefer, the SB blazer comes from ... well, this is more tricky. The striped jackets from late 19th Century more appear like odd jackets today, not blazers. So does the SB blazer have a history at all?

[Doctor Damage]

Thanks, a short reply:

The DB blazer comes from the reefer, the SB blazer comes from ... well, this is more tricky. The striped jackets from late 19th Century more appear like odd jackets today, not blazers. So does the SB blazer have a history at all?

I think it was someone on this forum (a long time ago) who suggested single-breasted blazers came from clothing manufacturers just putting gold buttons on suit jackets to broaden their range of products with minimal effort. That's probably why most blazers today, including double-breasted ones, are virtually indistinguishable from suits except for the buttons and why patch pockets are rare on RTW.

DocD

[nicksull]

I think its far more likely that the SB blazer is descended in a natural way from the DB reefer/blazer; just as the SB suit is a derivation of the DB, itself being a logical derivation from the usually DB frock coat. There is no reason, in some relatively enlightened moment, that a club might not have decreed single breasted blazers acceptable. But they would have to have been at least seen about for that to happen. For some reason i cant fathom (excuse nautical pun) rowing/tennis clubs might be where actual SB blazer comes from. Nice pics

Ive got one to add shortly....

[Doctor Damage]

Reefer Jackets continued...

Below are photos of more recent examples of reefer jackets, although in each case they appear to be buttoned to the middle row of buttons. In the third photograph, note the fellow on the far left in the reefer jacket and (for curiosity) note the older fellow next to Diana with toggles instead of buttons on his blazer!








The following photos show members of the royal family wearing modernized versions of the black reefer jackets I posted previously, but with the top row of buttons for show only.






Next up: double-breasted blazers of various types.

DocD

[s4usea]

I'm sorry, but isn't there a possibility that there isn't a nautical angle?

I'm thinking of the short coats that Cavalry wore so the tails wouldn't get in the way of their pistols. They went away for a bit when tactics changed from ranks of horseman riding up and "blazing away" with their pistols and then rode back and re-loaded as they worked their way to the head of the column again, to sword and lance shock.

They re-appeared by the end of the Eighteen Century when tactics changed again away from swords and lances.

Just wondering here...

Scott

[Albert]

Doc,

That's fantastic stuff - keep them coming, please! Many thanks for posting.

Cheers,
A.

[alaric]

I'm thinking of the short coats that Cavalry wore so the tails wouldn't get in the way of their pistols. They went away for a bit when tactics changed from ranks of horseman riding up and "blazing away" with their pistols and then rode back and re-loaded as they worked their way to the head of the column again, to sword and lance shock.

They re-appeared by the end of the Eighteen Century when tactics changed again away from swords and lances.

Just wondering here...

What your referring to, I think, is what became the spenser jacket, A waist or hip length skirtless jacket.

alaric

[neyus]

Here's some pictures of sporting and school blazers in Australia.

The real thing.











Now the imitation by Ralph Lauren.

[Doctor Damage]

In searching for information on reefer jackets I came across this interesting post on another forum devoted to yachting and boating:

"I wonder who the real maker was of the one Capt O M Watts used to sell to yachtsmen far and wide. After my father's death I tried his reefer but it was too small for me, I just cut off the yacht club buttons to await the right coat at the right time. I seem to remember the reefer being closer to a real jacket than the pea jackets pictured, narrower lapels and smart enough for the yacht club bar, but I may be mistaken it's a long time since I've seen one. Gieves and Hawkes sell something called a "No. 5 Reefer Jacket, Best Barathea" but the £1500 charge had me spluttering over the afternoon tea, and not even a picture! --John"

Anyone familiar with the G&H jacket to which he's referring?

DocD

[Doctor Damage]

Double-Breasted Blazers: Buttoning Up!

Here are some quick reference photos of the standard types of buttoning arrangements for double-breasted blazers. Note that I have not included below the reefer jacket (6X3).









Next I shall start posting a variety of photos illustrating the blazers shown above, plus double-breasted blazers of various colours, shapes, sizes, and lengths being worn in real life. I've tried to minimize the number of photos that include members of the British royal family, but since they wear blazers so often it's impossible to exclude them entirely.

DocD

[Matt S]

Prince Michael's is the only way to go. But 6x3 I would love to see RTW.

[Doctor Damage]

Let's get rolling with double-breasted blazers. I shall try to post them in advancing order of buttoning styles (sort of).

First up is King Carl Gustav of Sweden wearing a 4X1 blazer with his wife in indigenous dress. Just below is the king again wearing the same blazer while visiting Monaco and it's ruler; note the king's youngest son is wearing a 6X1 blazer.




The photo below is a shot from a Humphrey Bogart movie (the name escapes my memory). Bogie is wearing a 4X1 blazer, or perhaps it's a 4X2 that he is buttoning to the bottom. Obviously he's in costume for the film, but it still illustrates the style.



Careful inspection of the photo below reveals three separate buttoning styles for d-b blazers. Major Ronald Ferguson in the centre (father of the young woman on his left) is wearing a classic 6X2 blazer, but the assistant on the extreme right is wearing a 4X1 blazer and the man in the Aussie bush hat at left rear is wearing an unbuttoned 4X2 blazer.



DocD

[Doctor Damage]

Here's a couple of photos of David Niven looking great as always. In the first photo he's wearing a reefer jacket during an off-camera moment on a film set, and in the second photo he's wearing a 6X2 blazer (in costume and talking with Peter Ustinov).





The following photo shows Douglas Fairbanks Jr wearing a 3X1 blazer (note the wide horizontal spacing of the buttons and twin breast pockets) while standing with Noel Coward.



DocD

[Doctor Damage]

Most of the photos in the next several posts will be 6X2 blazers exclusively, since this is the most common style of double-breasted blazers. The three photos below are from Henley and/or Oxford-Cambridge regattas. The first black-and-white photo is from the 1920s or 1930s (I have a long thread on this topic over on the Trad Forum for those who are interested).







The two photos below are of Lord Romsey (as he was then) with his wife, taken on the occasion of their marriage. He is now known as Lord Brabourne and is a long-time friend of Prince Charles. Note the extremely large size of the buttons on his blazer.





DocD

[maxnharry]

Great photos!

I'd like to propose another angle:

1. The reefer jacket is another name for a peacoat. It was originally for going aloft in rigging to "reef" sail. In the U.S. Navy the peacoat is worn by enlisted and has black buttons and officers have a version that is called a reefer and has brass buttons.

2. The blazer is a civilian version of an officer's dress blue coat. the dress blue coat is double breasted with brass buttons and ventless.

[Matt S]

James Bond's 6x3 blazer. Very naval uniform-like. This is from The Man with the Golden Gun. George Lazenby also wore one in On Her Majesty's Secret Service.

[WinstonSpencer]

Wahoo! Bravo.

Good doctor, bloody great job. So my question for you, from the masses of refined flora of AA, if you were to buy one blazer, where/what would it be... The sky is the limit. Given us the quintessential blazer.

[neyus]

Can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 2x1 double breasted jackets.

[Matt S]

Can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 2x1 double breasted jackets.

The 2x1 makes the most sense. You only button one button anyway, so why have extra? Kind of like the one button suit coats. The second button is there of course to balance the first. I find the 6 button coats to be much more slimming than the 2 button.

[Doctor Damage]

The reefer jacket is another name for a peacoat. It was originally for going aloft in rigging to "reef" sail. In the U.S. Navy the peacoat is worn by enlisted and has black buttons and officers have a version that is called a reefer and has brass buttons.

The word "reefer" appears to be one of those terms with a bunch of different definitions. It certainly seems to imply a short double-breasted jacket worn shipboard, especially while sailing, although it applies in the UK to the 6X3 blazer. As you say, it's used in the US as another word for a pea jacket, although I suspect that's a corruption. Of course, today the word "blazer" is also used indiscriminantly, so it's really hard to pin down etymology(sp).

The blazer is a civilian version of an officer's dress blue coat. the dress blue coat is double breasted with brass buttons and ventless.

It is well known among students of military uniforms that the Royal Navy introduced all of the naval uniforms we are familiar with today and every other navy copied them. The square rig, the officer's jackets, it was all introduced by the Royal Navy and copied from them, with variations of course.

Can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 2x1 double breasted jackets.

I have only seen it worn on children, but that doesn't mean much. I imagine it would look quite poor on an adult man, unless he was very short or wide. On a tall man, I imagine that anything with less than 6 buttons would look out of proportion, unless very carefully cut.

Good doctor, bloody great job. So my question for you, from the masses of refined flora of AA, if you were to buy one blazer, where/what would it be... The sky is the limit. Given us the quintessential blazer.

Glad you're enjoying the photos. There's a lot in them, if you examine them for a while...and I'm getting to what I think is the ultimate blazer.

DocD

[Young Ruffian]

I'm not sure whether this is the right place to ask this, but what are some sources for very slim fitting classic sb blazers or ones with a large deal of waste suppression/high armholes. I'm a nine inch drop and enjoy a rather slim fit. Thanks!

[Doctor Damage]

I'm not sure whether this is the right place to ask this, but what are some sources for very slim fitting classic sb blazers or ones with a large deal of waste suppression/high armholes. I'm a nine inch drop and enjoy a rather slim fit. Thanks!

I would start a new thread for that, since most members here will not read this thread in detail. Also, I don't want to get derailed too far from the topic.

DocD