Gianluca Isaia?

**utkid** · May 8th, 2006 19:48

Can someone tell me what Gianluca Isaia suits are comparable to? These seem to be one of the offerings at STP and is Neapolitan, so it piqued my interest.
Thanks!

**hreljan** · May 8th, 2006 20:10

They are above Corneliani, Canali, Armani (Collezioni), and below Brioni, Kiton. very good deal for suits at STP price.

-Ex falso quodlibet-

**Siggy** · May 8th, 2006 22:15

hreljan, you are confusing Gianluca with Gianluca Isaia Napoli. The Napoli line is pretty high-end, the Gianluca line is the diffusion line.

I'd say the Gianluca suits are pretty nice, especially the cut and fabric. I'd put them one step down from Corneliani. They don't have the handwork of the better lines and the suits are only 3/4 canvassed with machine stiching. However, they are better than most suits in the price range IMO. Also, the ones on STP are advertised as having flat front pants but the ones I got had double reverse pleats!!

**constantmystery** · May 8th, 2006 22:33

is STP sierra trading post?

**Badrabbit** · May 8th, 2006 22:33

quote:Originally posted by Siggy

hreljan, you are confusing Gianluca with Gianluca Isaia Napoli. The Napoli line is pretty high-end, the Gianluca line is the diffusion line.

I'd say the Gianluca suits are pretty nice, especially the cut and fabric. I'd put them one step down from Corneliani. They don't have the handwork of the better lines and the suits are only 3/4 canvassed with machine stiching. However, they are better than most suits in the price range IMO. Also, the ones on STP are advertised as having flat front pants but the ones I got had double reverse pleats!!

The newer ones on STP are listed as Gianluca Isaia Napoli. They don't appear to be the same as the ones they have offered in the past.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Women thrive on novelty and are easy meat for the commerce of fashion. Men prefer old pipes and torn jackets.
Anthony Burgess

**Rollo Tomasi** · May 8th, 2006 22:50

Gianluca Isaia are excellent suits in the Neopolitan tradition. While it does not contain the handwork of a Kiton, it is perhaps equal to or slightly above Zegna Couture. I would certainly rate them above Corneliani, Canali, and regular Zegna.

**utkid** · May 8th, 2006 23:39

It is always interesting to find out that a label I have never heard of happens to be of such high quality. Thanks to all.

**Sator** · May 8th, 2006 23:55

Isaia is the budget version of high-end Neapolitan tailoring. With them you have to make sure you know precisely which range you are dealing with. Isaia produces three separate lines, each with different degrees of hand-tailoring. The Enrico Isaia line is almost entirely handmade, while the Isaia and Gianluca Isaia lines are machine-made but hand-finished. The 'Gianluca' line is more of a diffusion line and should probably be avoided.

SATOR
AREPO
TENET
OPERA
ROTAS

**tmack3** · May 9th, 2006 00:30

slightly off topic, but i have a beautiful 7 fold isaia tie. they have fantastic looking neckwear. i also think the shirts look very nice, but they are expensive and don't fit me right

**Daywalker** · May 9th, 2006 04:08

quote:Originally posted by utkid

Can someone tell me what Gianluca Isaia suits are comparable to? These seem to be one of the offerings at STP and is Neapolitan, so it piqued my interest.
Thanks!

Comparisons and opinions on this board are all over the place. Isaia Napoli are outstanding suits and you really have to go an order of magnitude higher (and more expensive) to do better. Buy it, you'll like it.

**Daywalker** · May 9th, 2006 04:10

quote:Originally posted by Siggy

hreljan, you are confusing Gianluca with Gianluca Isaia Napoli. The Napoli line is pretty high-end, the Gianluca line is the diffusion line.

I'd say the Gianluca suits are pretty nice, especially the cut and fabric. I'd put them one step down from Corneliani. They don't have the handwork of the better lines and the suits are only 3/4 canvassed with machine stiching. However, they are better than most suits in the price range IMO. Also, the ones on STP are advertised as having flat front pants but the ones I got had double reverse pleats!!

I agree. For the money, the Gian Luca suits are pretty darn nice and the fabrics are usually outstanding.

**hreljan** · May 9th, 2006 08:29

I was under impression that Gianluca Napoli (no mention of Isaia in the name) is the diffusion line, and that Gainluca Isaia Napoli (which I assumed the question was about) is the higher end line.

quote:Originally posted by Siggy

hreljan, you are confusing Gianluca with Gianluca Isaia Napoli. The Napoli line is pretty high-end, the Gianluca line is the diffusion line.

I'd say the Gianluca suits are pretty nice, especially the cut and fabric. I'd put them one step down from Corneliani. They don't have the handwork of the better lines and the suits are only 3/4 canvassed with machine stiching. However, they are better than most suits in the price range IMO. Also, the ones on STP are advertised as having flat front pants but the ones I got had double reverse pleats!!

-Ex falso quodlibet-

**smr** · May 9th, 2006 08:46

I agree with hreljan. Gianluca Napoli is the diffusion line: 1/2 or 3/4 canvassed, and very little hand tailoring. Never pay more than $400 or so (at a discount store/site, anyway) for these. Here's a link to the GN line: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/pro...x?baseno=52378 .

If you see the name Isaia mentioned specifically, it has lots of hand tailoring, and fits exactly where hreljan put it in his suit hierarchy summary (based on the amount of hand tailoring). To make the price from STP really great, don't forget to check for coupons for STP before ordering. The 15% one in "steals and deals" should still be working, and there may be a 20% one out there.

**amerikajinda** · May 9th, 2006 09:42

From my experience, they have very high armholes. You really have to have the right body to wear Isaia. Would anybody agree with this assessment?

**hreljan** · May 9th, 2006 10:40

High armholes on RTW can present a fit problem. That's why you see this feature mainly on bespoke, Even soem MTM programs do not do high armholes (as a cost saving).

-Ex falso quodlibet-

**charle22** · May 9th, 2006 14:28

quote:Originally posted by Rollo Tomasi

Gianluca Isaia are excellent suits in the Neopolitan tradition. While it does not contain the handwork of a Kiton, it is perhaps equal to or slightly above Zegna Couture. I would certainly rate them above Corneliani, Canali, and regular Zegna.

Wow! Above Zegna Couture? That's a pretty interesting statement. What criteria is used for such comparisons?

Also does anyone know why Isaia Napoli's popularity in the global market exceed others i.e., Antoni Panico & Sartoria Sabino ?

Is it because of a better product or otherwise?

**KenCPollock** · May 9th, 2006 15:47

For thirty years I was a lover of Norman Hilton suits and probably bought 200 of them. IMO it was the best USA suit, with a cut far superior to anything from Hickey Freeman or Oxxford.
It has been a struggle for the last 10 years, since Hilton closed. My solutions: Samuelsohn (not quite as good), Isaia (maybe a little better, but costly), and Kiton (even better, but out-of sight). I think Attolini is maybe even better than Kiton, but is well beyond my means. I do not personally care for Brioni (like Oxxford, great tailoring, but problems with the cut and fit).
STP's Isaia's are a bargain.
I should mention that I am rather trad and the shoulders on most Corneliani, Canali, Zegna, Oxxford, Brioni and Hickey Freeman are not my cup of tea.

**GT3** · May 9th, 2006 16:04

quote:I think Attolini is maybe even better than Kiton

I agree with you there... IIRC Ciro Paone worked with Attolini before venturing off on his own.

Honesty pays, but it doesn't seem to pay enough to suit some people. - F. M. Hubbard

**CharlieChannel** · May 9th, 2006 16:32

I like Gianluca Isaia a lot. Very well made, yes
below Brioni and Kiton, above all others, similar
to Battistoni and Belvest. A slimmer-guy's cut
but I wear their 60long no problem.
Their shirts also good but Battistoni's better.
Buy em all at STP, OR at Barney's either on
sale or at the N.Y. W. 17th Street Warehouse
Sale (August is not that far away).

Charlie Channel-hunter

**Siggy** · May 9th, 2006 17:46

You guys are all over the place in ranking the Isaia suits. The "Gianluca Napoli" (same as "Gianluca") is the diffusion line. "Gianluca Isaia Napoli" is the regular line, which I'd put on par or higher than E. Zegna, Corneliani, Canali etc. "Enrico Isaia Napoli" is the highest line and not often seen. The "Gianluca Napoli" suits on STP are IMO a step down from Corneliani but still very nice.

**iammatt** · May 9th, 2006 17:53

quote:Originally posted by GT3

quote:I think Attolini is maybe even better than Kiton

I agree with you there... IIRC Ciro Paone worked with Attolini before venturing off on his own.

Honesty pays, but it doesn't seem to pay enough to suit some people. - F. M. Hubbard

Other way around. Attolini worked for Kiton.

IMO, quality is pretty much the same. Cuts are a little different. Kiton is a bit softer and Attolini is a bit shapelier. Kitons fabrics are a cut above.

**Badrabbit** · May 9th, 2006 19:20

quote:Originally posted by Siggy

You guys are all over the place in ranking the Isaia suits. The "Gianluca Napoli" (same as "Gianluca") is the diffusion line. "Gianluca Isaia Napoli" is the regular line, which I'd put on par or higher than E. Zegna, Corneliani, Canali etc. "Enrico Isaia Napoli" is the highest line and not often seen. The "Gianluca Napoli" suits on STP are IMO a step down from Corneliani but still very nice.

Are we looking at the same suits? Because, unless I have forgotten how to read, the suits on STP say "Gianluca Isaia Napoli" and not "Gianluca Napoli."

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/pro...x?baseno=48395

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Women thrive on novelty and are easy meat for the commerce of fashion. Men prefer old pipes and torn jackets.
Anthony Burgess

**GT3** · May 9th, 2006 19:55

quote:Originally posted by iammatt

quote:Originally posted by GT3

quote:I think Attolini is maybe even better than Kiton

I agree with you there... IIRC Ciro Paone worked with Attolini before venturing off on his own.

Honesty pays, but it doesn't seem to pay enough to suit some people. - F. M. Hubbard

Other way around. Attolini worked for Kiton.

IMO, quality is pretty much the same. Cuts are a little different. Kiton is a bit softer and Attolini is a bit shapelier. Kitons fabrics are a cut above.

I just looked at the website for Attolini ( http://www.cesareattolini.it/ ) and checked the "about us" link and it says that the whole thing started in 1930 and was passed from father to son to son...

This info was backed up when I was in Boston. I met an older gentleman from Napoli (italian restaurant), and we talked about the clothing tradtions. He too said that the Attolinis are famous and have been at it for a long time.

I know that there was an article somewhere that stated Cesare left Kiton on the advice of his family, I don't remember what context that was in.

Honesty pays, but it doesn't seem to pay enough to suit some people. - F. M. Hubbard

**comrade** · May 9th, 2006 21:44

I just received the Gianlucca Napoli Blue Basketweave
sportcoat from STP. I already own a Gianlucca Isaia Napoli
wool and cashmere coat. Unfortunately, it doesn't have
natural shoulders as does my Isaia. My tailor said that
he can alter the new coat so that the shoulders are identical
to the Isaia. Actually, the pad on the new coat is at the sleeve-
head creating a "roped" effect. The pad does not cover
the entire shoulder. My tailor is excellent and does work
for the Wilkes Bashford branch in Palo Alto, CA. Any
comments on the feasibility of this alteration?

**Teacher** · May 9th, 2006 21:46

If you like the fabric, why not?

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