Pocket square quality

[goplutus]

Aside from picking appropriate color and pattern, is there anything special pocket square could offer that would be worth paying a premium?

-Mmm mmm good-

[DocHolliday]

Two big things: silk quality and construction. Inexpensive pocket squares are often thin and wrinkle easily. Then they like to hold onto those wrinkles. Inexpensive ones also tend to have machine-sewn edges, while good ones have edges that are rolled by hand.

I have an easier time understanding why a good square, with an hour's worth of labor in it, costs $30 than why a cheap square, with two minutes' worth of labor in it, costs $15.

[JLibourel]

I have sometimes myself wondered about the enormous price differentials I encounter in pocket squares. I was noticing that the South Coast Saks was selling solid-colored silken squares for $70. Around the corner at Macy's, similar product is offered at $10. Is there some stitching in the hem that can possibly warrant anything approaching this huge price differential? Or what? I can see being willing to pay a premium for a unique and gorgeous pattern or something like that, but to my eye, one solid-colored silken square is much like another.

Of course, there are those purists who despise any and all solid-colored silken squares, but I am not among them, seeing that I am wearing one at this very moment.

[JLibourel]

quote:Originally posted by DocHolliday

Two big things: silk quality and construction. Inexpensive pocket squares are often thin and wrinkle easily. Then they like to hold onto those wrinkles. Inexpensive ones also tend to have machine-sewn edges, while good ones have edges that are rolled by hand.

I have an easier time understanding why a good square, with an hour's worth of labor in it, costs $30 than why a cheap square, with two minutes' worth of labor in it, costs $15.

Would have to disagree with you somewhat there, Doc. I really see no practical difference between my $30 Talbott squares and the ones I bought at Men's Wearhouse for $6.99 re fabric density, wrinkling, etc. Since I "puff" my silken squares and the stitching is invisible, that is of no moment to me. I note that I am wearing one my Talbott squares right now. I'll have to compare its hems with those of the cheapos when I get home.

[Étienne]

quote:Originally posted by JLibourel
I have sometimes myself wondered about the enormous price differentials I encounter in pocket squares. I was noticing that the South Coast Saks was selling solid-colored silken squares for $70.

That sounds a little much. The bigger solid silk ones at Charvet are 45 euros.

[Sam Hober]

quote:Originally posted by JLibourel

quote:Originally posted by DocHolliday

Two big things: silk quality and construction. Inexpensive pocket squares are often thin and wrinkle easily. Then they like to hold onto those wrinkles. Inexpensive ones also tend to have machine-sewn edges, while good ones have edges that are rolled by hand. I have an easier time understanding why a good square, with an hour's worth of labor in it, costs $30 than why a cheap square, with two minutes' worth of labor in it, costs $15.

Would have to disagree with you somewhat there, Doc. I really see no practical difference between my $30 Talbott squares and the ones I bought at Men's Wearhouse for $6.99 re fabric density, wrinkling, etc. Since I "puff" my silken squares and the stitching is invisible, that is of no moment to me. I note that I am wearing one my Talbott squares right now. I'll have to compare its hems with those of the cheapos when I get home.

JLibourel,

You make a very good point about solid-colored pocket squares, that you do not show the edges of. A good part of the cost of a really well made pocket square is the labor in the edges. And if you will not show the edges, then it is not that important to have nice edges.

A machine sewn edge should be just fine. As for the silk, if you like Chinese (most silk pocket squares at a low price point are of Chinese silk) silk then you are in luck.

Sort of like Timex watches, they are inexpensive and do well for many people.

Now if you prefer Italian or English solids the price of the silk will go up. there is a difference in the look and manufacturing cost. Thai silks will tend to be heavier and have more texture which makes a very big difference, if you like a heavier silk with more texture. Some men do and some don't, it is all a matter of personal preference.

Although Thai silk tends to not slip in your pocket which is a practical difference which might appeal to you. And if you want to wear a silk pocket square with points then a well made one makes a difference both on an aesthetic level and a practical one.

I would be happy to send you some swatches (in an effort to make you a true believer and convert you to Thai silk pocket squares) Please email me if you are feeling adventurous.....





David Hober

Custom Made/Bespoke Neckties, Pocket Squares & Scarves
http://www.mulberrywood.com/necktie/...keanecktie.htm

[DocHolliday]

quote:Originally posted by JLibourel

Would have to disagree with you somewhat there, Doc. I really see no practical difference between my $30 Talbott squares and the ones I bought at Men's Wearhouse for $6.99 re fabric density, wrinkling, etc. Since I "puff" my silken squares and the stitching is invisible, that is of no moment to me. I note that I am wearing one my Talbott squares right now. I'll have to compare its hems with those of the cheapos when I get home.

I hear you, JLibourel. I certainly don't want to suggest that all expensive squares are good quality or that all inexpensive ones are poor. I'm just suggesting that there's often a correlation, and that there are reasons for that correlation. I too own a pocket square from Men's Wearhouse, and it's on par with some other, more expensive squares I own. But I also have others that are much thicker and much less prone to wrinkling. I consider those higher quality, and they all cost more.

Like anything, I guess you just have to know what to look for and decide if it's worth paying the asking price. I certainly wouldn't pay $150 or whatever it is Hermes is asking these days. But I also won't pony up $30 for a machine-stitched version at a mid-range department store.

[The Gabba Goul]

Truth be told...if you want to feel a good pocket square...go get yourself a Hermes there is nothing like a Hermes pocket square in this world...are you paying a premium for the name? Cartainly...but it is still the best pocketsquare on the market today...if you dont feel like plunking down a bill for a silk hankie, you can buy a much more affordable one, of very close quality to Hermes from our friend and fellow board member David Hober (aka Mulberrywood)...unfortunately he has no prints available, so if you like those, you'll still have to go to Hermes, but he has some beautiful fabrics some with woven patterns and stripes etc...I noticed he offered to send you some swatches...I'd deffinately take him up on that...I think I speak for a lot of forum members here when I say that his pocket squares are probably the best value on the market today...

*****

[image]http://radio.weblogs.com/0119318/Screenshots/rose.jpg[/image]"See...What I'm gonna do is wear a shirt only once, and then give it right away to the laundry...eh?
A new shirt every day!!!"

[Drinking and Drafting]

Honestly, I believe that some people on this forum will tell you to find the most expensive pocket square (or anything else for that matter) and to buy it because it must be the best. Truth be told, if you are paying more than 45 dollars for a pocket square, you are paying too much.
Talbott makes good ones, BB has some nice ones, Vineyard Vines makes some nice prints for 35 dollars, and chances are your local men's store carries some nice ones under their own label.



Until a man is 25, he still believes, somewhere deep in his mind, that if the circumstances were right, he could be the baddest motherf***er in the world.

- Snowcrash, Neil Stephenson

[eromlignod]

It's like ties: exquisite quality means little if you can't find a good pattern. If the square has reasonable quality (rolled edges, good fabric, etc.) then really the pattern and/or texture is what's important. There are brands of tie that are, without a doubt, top quality...but I may find every one of them stodgy. It's the same with pocket squares.

There are two things that I would specifically avoid when selecting a pocket square. Some are too small (nine or ten inches). These have a tendency to migrate downward, due to gravity, through the day and disappear into the breast pocket. Some of these are of exceptional quality, they're just too small, that's all. The other one to avoid is the one's that have the pattern printed only on one side (sometimes a dark pattern with white on the opposite side!). These are also a bad idea unless you plan to use them in a "puff only" fold. If you are going to show any corners at all, these look cheap.

Other than that, get what looks sharp and compliments the ensemble. Nobody cares how much you paid.

Don
Kansas City

[AlanC]

I will say that I find my Talbott, Turnbull and Drake's pocket squares to be of superior quality than my cheaper one's. The silk is softer and bounces back from wrinkles better. All of mine were purchased at deep discount. That said, with a typical puff fold solid colored cheaper squares(eg, made in China) are perfectly serviceable. I've moved away from solid silk squares, though.

My favorite pocket squares are vintage linen and cotton. I noticed that David mentioned that a high quality linen square will be handrolled with at least five stitches per inch. I counted the stitches on one of my vintage linen squares the other day and it had about nine per inch. Amazing stuff.

I've yet to try one of David's, which is a great omission on my part. I have been eyeing his wool squares specifically as I don't have any of wool. I also need to try making my own using David's instructions from some great cotton shirting I've picked up.

[Chuck Franke]

Two suggestions....

One, the finish on the silk matters. the super soft 'silky' finish or 'gum' finishing makes for a lovely feel but they are slippery and will slide if they haven't got enough heft. If you like them super soft and supple make sure they are also thick and or large.

The same piece of silk can be finished with a hand that is more dry with a matte finish and more stiffness.

I really need to get out to CO to see David's Thai silks - my assumption is that his textures accomplish the above nicely.

www.carlofranco.com
Seven Fold Ties
Handmade in Italy