Building a Great Wardrobe From Scratch

[sam]

This topic has been on my mind for some time now and I know it has been covered in bits and pieces amongst various threads. But I'd like to ask the Sartorial High Council of this forum to convene and extol their wisdom on this subject and perhaps Andy can make this a sticky that new members can refer to.

As a young professional in his early 30s and an aspiring sartorialist who aims to have a completely bespoke wardrobe; where should one begin? In other words, what pieces should make up the foundation of a great wardrobe? Lets try and forget labels like Trad, Preppy, or Dandy for the moment, and stick to the essentials. If you were to think of a wardrobe as a pyramid, with the base being the essentials/foundation, and then working up to the apex as the whimsical or novel, then what would your foundation be? For example, how many suits, sport coats, trousers, shoes, shirts, ties, sweaters, coats, etc. and of what color and styles would comprise the foundation?

I've always had the philosophy, "Buy less, but buy the best you can afford." I am in the process of purging my closet and getting rid of all the non-essential, trendy things that I no longer wear, bought on impulse and don't intend to keep.

So lets categorize the wardrobe into items with the following headings:
[u]Number</u> [u]Colors</u> [u]Styles</u> [u]Material</u>
1. Shirts
2. Trousers
3. Suits
4. Sport Coats
5. Shoes
6. Sweaters
7. Coats
8. Jackets
9. Accessories (socks, gloves, braces, belts, cuff links, etc)
10. Ties

I think this type of survey will be very helpful for new, less expereinced members, as well as help those of us, whose tastes far exceed or wallets, spend our money more wisely on quality things that will last and be immune to passing trends. Thank you all!

[AlanC]

From a discussion that aportnoy and I had, here is the list Andrew put forward (hoping Andrew doesn't mind):

2 grey suits for winter
2 grey suits for summer
2 navy suits for winter
2 navy suits for summer
1 tan suit for summer
1 navy blazer
1 herringbone tweed blazer in grey/black
1 earth toned tweed sportcoat
1 summer weight odd sport coat
2 pairs grey flannel trousers (1 charcoal, 1 medium)
1 pair brown or olive flannel trousers
1 pair corduroy trousers in an earth tone
1 pair grey lightweight wool trousers
1 pair khaki trousers
1 pair cream linen trousers
1 charcoal grey single breasted wool overcoat
1 Burberry type raincoat with removeable wool liner
Assortment of shirts and ties. For a good rotation 25 shirts, 50 ties.
1 pair black captoes
1 pair dark brown captoes
1 pair dark brown suede brogues
1 pair burgundy brogues or semi brogues
1 pair demi boots or chukkas
1 pair loafers in burgundy or dark brown

[aportnoy]

Thanks for digging that up Alan! I think it stands up pretty well. Obviously you'll need to prioritize the list based upon your occupation etc. But follow this list and you'll ahve a rock solid wardrobe foundation for years to come.

[mpcsb]

I would add one more catagory, something along the lines of leisure activities. I would need to add clothes for gardening, squash and riding to the list, others would list something else.
Cheers

[maxnharry]

Good list. I think that that would be an extremely servicible wardrobe

[sam]

AlanC,
Thanks for list! This seems like a great start. Part of my motivation for starting this thread is that I'm planning to have my first bespoke suit made within the next few months, and was hoping that it would fit into this "essential" category. I'm going for a grey suit (somewhere bewteen pearl and charcoal) that I can wear three out of four seasons for both business and evenings. I just ordered a pair of C&J Weymouths in dark antique brown that I think will be pretty versatile. Once they arrive, I'll throw out my Johnston&Murphys. I plan to upgrade items I already have and wear a lot before buying new ones.

[Cantabrigian]

I would do without heavy winter-weight suits. You will rarely find yourself outside in a suit for an extended period of time and they are too warm to wear in properly heated buildings.

[Mr. Di Liberti]

Hey Sam,

Two item's not on that list, which IMO are essential; black single breasted suit and dinner jacket & trousers with formal shoes.

These are not be needed for daily office on the norm, though for after hours and evening events, they are a must.

Just begun building a bespoke waredrobe myself. I believe 3 shirts, 2 trousers, 2 ties and 2 pair of shoes for every suit may be the best bet for longevity and versatility.

Anthony

Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage ~ Theodore Roosevelt

[Brooksfan]

Cantabrigian is absolutely right. It was under 20 degrees when I left the house today (Chicago suburbs) and drove 25 miles in a heated car to a superheated office that (I'm not making this up) they set the thermostat at 76 degrees.

As I replace items I am buying seasonless wool in charcoal and navy. My only disappointment is that so far I have not found a silk/wool/linen or comparable blend in sport coat fabrics in suitably dark colors. Brooks always has this fabric in the spring/summer line but the colors are too light for year round wear. If they'd offer a dark gray herringbone, a POW plaid and a houndsooth in gray/blue I'd buy it tomorrow.

I had some flannel pants but I've noticed that the same hard finish worsted wools that are comfortable in July don't leave me cold in the winter so going forward I'll invest in a heavy coat but skip the heavier suits, pants and sport coats.

[eromlignod]

quote:Originally posted by AlanC

From a discussion that aportnoy and I had, here is the list Andrew put forward (hoping Andrew doesn't mind):

2 grey suits for winter
2 grey suits for summer
2 navy suits for winter
2 navy suits for summer
1 tan suit for summer
1 navy blazer
1 herringbone tweed blazer in grey/black
1 earth toned tweed sportcoat
1 summer weight odd sport coat
2 pairs grey flannel trousers (1 charcoal, 1 medium)
1 pair brown or olive flannel trousers
1 pair corduroy trousers in an earth tone
1 pair grey lightweight wool trousers
1 pair khaki trousers
1 pair cream linen trousers
1 charcoal grey single breasted wool overcoat
1 Burberry type raincoat with removeable wool liner
Assortment of shirts and ties. For a good rotation 25 shirts, 50 ties.
1 pair black captoes
1 pair dark brown captoes
1 pair dark brown suede brogues
1 pair burgundy brogues or semi brogues
1 pair demi boots or chukkas
1 pair loafers in burgundy or dark brown

What? No Glen plaids?

Don
Kansas City

[AlanC]

Well, I don't think there's any opposition, but this is a list of basics. If setting up priority for basic business wear, a navy, say, would rank higher than a Glen plaid.

I suspect that Andrew has a Glen plaid or two squirreled away, but he is well past 'basic' in his wardrobe (he's got more than 6 pairs of shoes, too! )

[aportnoy]

quote:Originally posted by AlanC

Well, I don't think there's any opposition, but this is a list of basics. If setting up priority for basic business wear, a navy, say, would rank higher than a Glen plaid.

I suspect that Andrew has a Glen plaid or two squirreled away, but he is well past 'basic' in his wardrobe (he's got more than 6 pairs of shoes, too! )

I'm actually wearing a POW plaid (black/cream w/ royal windowpane) as we speak. But to Alan's point, this wasn' the first, second or sixth suit that i bought. Start with the basics and build from there.

[NewYorkBuck]

quote:I would do without heavy winter-weight suits. You will rarely find yourself outside in a suit for an extended period of time and they are too warm to wear in properly heated buildings.

Do agree - but those 13 oz fabrics lay so nice!

[eromlignod]

quote:Originally posted by AlanC

Well, I don't think there's any opposition, but this is a list of basics. If setting up priority for basic business wear, a navy, say, would rank higher than a Glen plaid.

I suspect that Andrew has a Glen plaid or two squirreled away, but he is well past 'basic' in his wardrobe (he's got more than 6 pairs of shoes, too! )

I guess I don't understand why you would buy two gray and two blue suits before you add other styles.

Don
Kansas City

[tck13]

I found this in a book I recently purchased called "What Not to Wear". I kinda like the list as it seems to cover most bases. It seems to be a good goal to shoot for. (Except tuxedo event)

I forgot to add; this list should be considered a bare minimum!

1. A heavier weight wool 2 or 3 button suit in charcoal or navy
2. A tropical weight wool 2 or 3 button suit in brown or med. grey
3. A tweed sport coat (Personally, not tweed for me, but...)
4. At least 6 dress shirts (sized neck and sleeve)
5. 6 sport shirts, long or short sleeve, some polos mixed in
6. 6 ties
7. 2 pocket squares
8. 3 sweaters (pref. cashmere)
9. An overcoat
10. Brown loafers
11. Black loafers
12. Brown lace ups
13. Black lace ups
14. 2 pairs of jeans- lighter for day, darker for night / dressier
15. 1 pair cargo, painter, carpenter pants
16. 1 brown belt
17. 1 black belt
18. 1 QUALITY umbrella
19. 1 leather briefcase
20. 1 metal band watch
21. 1 leather band watch
22. 1 non-athletic sneaker

[Concordia]

AlanC's list is an excellent one.

http://www.8savilerow.com/style04.html , for another view.

One approach is to look at what you basically do during a season and ask yourself, "what if I needed to do this all week?" So, for non-summer months, if you wear a suit most days, get a week's worth. Two at the bare minimum, but aim for five. Adjust for whether you are mostly using them during the day, while travelling, at the opera, or whatever. You might want a special-purpose suit after your real basics are covered. This might include genuine heavy-weight cloths (&gt;13oz), flannel, something a little more dashing. A dinner jacket is for some not at all important, but should be in the rotation if you're at risk for wearing more than once a year.

Same for shoes. Two black and one dark brown is the bare minimum for suit-wearers. Then ask what you'd do if you had, say, a week of black-shoe meetings on rainy days. Maybe you'd pick up a third pair. Adjust accordingly if you're casual more often, or prefer tan suits in the summer, etc. Build out from there.

[Syringemouth]

You can follow my limitations (and goals)

-10 Suits
-10 Sport Coats
-36 Shirts
-10 Pairs of Odd Trousers
-50 Neckties
-12 Pairs of Shoes
-3 Topcoats
-12 Sweaters

I don't really have any recomended colors or coordinations because to me this is very personal. If you are wearing this for business, which it sounds like you are stay conservative. The above is my ultimate goal and I am quickly getting there with the help of the forum. :D

[Allthingstrad]

AlanC, do you not wear dress shirts with your suits?

"Since it's a traditional, preppy look it's best if balanced by a relatively small four-in-hand knot." He sips his martini, recrossing his legs. "Next question?"

[sam]

Great feedback everyone! Keep it coming. Yes, I agree that a tuxedo and dinner jacket is an essential part of the wardrobe if you want to have all your bases covered. I'm reminded of the great fashion illustrations of AA/Esky from the 30 and 40s found on the London Lounge. I'd love to have such a diverse wardbrobe as pictured in the illustrations. Better to start with the basics and then work my way up the sartorial pyramid. I guess the brown and cream spectators, and the pin dot ascots will have to wait.

[Charley]

Try to read as many of the posts by Tutee - both here and on The London Lounge site. Note how the jackets and trousers can be exchanged to create different looks. Both suit jackets and pants used as "odd" items. Creating a wardrobe that allows this interchange requires a greater depth of thought about fabrics, colors, and patterns. The end result will be a much more interesting and wearable wardrobe.

[sam]

quote:Originally posted by Charley

Try to read as many of the posts by Tutee - both here and on The London Lounge site. Note how the jackets and trousers can be exchanged to create different looks. Both suit jackets and pants used as "odd" items. Creating a wardrobe that allows this interchange requires a greater depth of thought about fabrics, colors, and patterns. The end result will be a much more interesting and wearable wardrobe.

I couldn't agree more! Maybe Manton or someone else from the "High Council" could give us a dissertation on fabrics, colors and patterns that would help us create the most versatility in our wardrobes. I'd really like to be able to swap suit jackets and trousers and create more outfits out of the same pieces.

[Charley]

quote:Originally posted by sam

I couldn't agree more! Maybe Manton or someone else from the "High Council" could give us a dissertation on fabrics, colors and patterns that would help us create the most versatility in our wardrobes. I'd really like to be able to swap suit jackets and trousers and create more outfits out of the same pieces.

Sam,

It is much more than reading a long post by Manton.
Tutee has made several very long posts. With great illustrations and including the detailed commentary necessary to understand what you are seeing. Describing the fabrics and patterns of the suits, describing the fabrics of the ties and shirts, and commenting upon how the elements of all of these compliment each other. The "looks" are very seldom seen today, even though they would be stylish. Sure, you might favor a slightly different lapel width, gorge location, or button height than was favored in the 1930's. But it is the fabric choices, weight, colors, and patterns that give the garments the real interest. It is much more complicated than simply purchasing a pinstripe in the latest rage of Super XXX. The end result can be so much more distinctive and stylish.

[AlanC]

quote:Originally posted by Allthingstrad

AlanC, do you not wear dress shirts with your suits?

The list I posted is aportnoy's, not mine, although it seems like a good one to me.

And please note this from the list, Allthingstrad:

quote:...
1 charcoal grey single breasted wool overcoat
1 Burberry type raincoat with removeable wool liner
Assortment of shirts and ties. For a good rotation 25 shirts, 50 ties.
1 pair black captoes
1 pair dark brown captoes
...

In your rush for a 'gotcha' you abandoned basic reading comprehension.

[mensimageconsultant]

quote:Originally posted by tck13

I found this in a book I recently purchased called "What Not to Wear". I kinda like the list as it seems to cover most bases. It seems to be a good goal to shoot for. (Except tuxedo event)

I forgot to add; this list should be considered a bare minimum!

1. A heavier weight wool 2 or 3 button suit in charcoal or navy
2. A tropical weight wool 2 or 3 button suit in brown or med. grey
3. A tweed sport coat (Personally, not tweed for me, but...)
4. At least 6 dress shirts (sized neck and sleeve)
5. 6 sport shirts, long or short sleeve, some polos mixed in
6. 6 ties
7. 2 pocket squares
8. 3 sweaters (pref. cashmere)
9. An overcoat
10. Brown loafers
11. Black loafers
12. Brown lace ups
13. Black lace ups
14. 2 pairs of jeans- lighter for day, darker for night / dressier
15. 1 pair cargo, painter, carpenter pants
16. 1 brown belt
17. 1 black belt
18. 1 QUALITY umbrella
19. 1 leather briefcase
20. 1 metal band watch
21. 1 leather band watch
22. 1 non-athletic sneaker

It's a good list, but...

1) It leaves out dress pants and pants for Casual Fridays.
2) It seems aimed at a cold climate.
3) At least one sweater should be merino wool, and lambswool is also good to have.