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Alexander S. Kabbaz
http://www.CustomShirt1.com
How
to (Properly)
Sew On A Button.
Properly sewing on a button
is not difficult. For the beginner it can - and should - take a
bit of time. The method illustrated applies to shirts. The same
method applies to suits and coats, but there are usually more
turns on the shank and sometimes the thread end is left running
inside the garment rather than being locked through the thread.
You will need a needle. We use #7 sharps, but a honed toothpick
with a hole in one end will suffice. You will need thread. We
use Mercerized Cotton Glacé #24 which is thick, strong, and
meant not to break. Any thread will work, but if you use
"standard home sewing thread", double the number of
stitches/turns, etc. Silk is used on tailored clothing. You will
need a thimble or pair of pliers ... or a large box of
Band-Aids.
Ready?
1] Thread your needle. No knot! Cut the two thread ends roughly
the same length.
2] Insert the needle into the cloth 1/16" above or below
where you want the button.
3] Outsert the needle from the cloth 1/8" from the
insertion point. No - I have no clue if outsert is a word. I
take it you got the drift, though.

4] Pull the thread through until about 1" of the two tails
remain sticking out. Repeat the same procedure in the same
place. You now have the thread going through the cloth twice.
5] Do the same thing, one time, in the same position, but at a
90° angle to the first two stitches.
6] Pull gently to tighten up the three stitches. Using a sharp
scissor, cut off the two tails about 1/16" from the cloth.
7] Insert the button onto the needle (from the underside of the
button) through any of the four holes. Yes, I know the photos
show three hole buttons. The principle is the same.

8] Decide if you want a cross-stitch or a parallel stitch and
insert the needle (from the topside) back down through the
button in the appropriate hole.
9] Repeat steps 2] & 3] drawing the thread tight but leaving
a 1/16" gap between the button and the cloth.

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10]
Repeat steps 8] and 9] using the two opposite holes.

11] If using Glacé or other strong thread, repeat steps 8], 9], &
10] one more time. If using weak home sewing thread (h.s.t.), repeat
these steps three more times.
12] Now wrap the thread tightly around the attaching threads. If
using glacé, do this three or four times. If using h.s.t., do this 6-8
times. You are constructing the "shank".

13] This is hard. You will need pliers or thimble: Keep the thread
locked tightly around the shank by holding it in place with one
thumbnail. Using thimble or pliers, push your needle through the shank.
Pull the needle and thread all the way through. Perform this operation
twice more. If you can manage to do it, actually push the point of the
needle through the thread itself (pierce the thread). These are the
stitches which lock your work in place. If they actually pierce the
shank thread, the assembly will be ever-that-much stronger and
permanent. Spare no effort.

14] Cut the threads about 1/16" from the shank. Tie no knots.

15] Launder the shirt. When the thread shrinks, it will shrink around
those final three stitches, firmly locking them so that they should not
unravel.
And the whole thing only required 15 minutes! Times the average 14
buttons on a shirt. Now you know why they sew buttons on using
button-sewing machines.
As an aside, there are three popular bespoke stitches. The cross-stitch
is most popular; parallel stitch second most (and the one usually seen
on RTW), and the "chicken-foot" stitch the least seen ... but
that's a story for another day.
Copyright © 2006 Alexander S.
Kabbaz. All rights reserved. Forum members may print one copy for their
personal use only. No reproduction of any kind permitted without written
permission of the copyright holder.

http://www.CustomShirt1.com
Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
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