Burberry or Trench Burberrys of London created this cotton twill raincoat for British troops during World War I. It has wide lapels, a back yoke, button in-or-out lining, military style details such as epaulets, buckled wrist straps, a button-down storm flap on the shoulder, a belt with D rings to clip on military equipment like grenades. Thomas Burberry (1835 – 1926) born at Brookham Green, near Dorking, England was an apprentice to a draper. He started his own business in 1856 in Basingstoke, Hampshire and expanded into clothing.
While he was researching waterproof material, a doctor stated that the ideal fabric would be impervious to rain and wind, but allow the body to breathe. Inspired by the closely woven linen smocks of local shepherds he designed a cotton fabric, which was waterproofed both in the yarn and then in the final fabric. He called the material "Gabardine", but the raincoats were soon known as Burberry. During the Boer War officers begin to wear Burberry raincoats, which persuaded the War Office to give official approval and the coat model Trench 21, specifically designed for World War I trench warfare was produced in 1914.
Macintosh or "Mac" (listen to the Beatles’ "Penny Lane") is made from "India rubber cloth" patented in 1822 by Charles Macintosh. Introduced in 1830, this was the first raincoat. The cloth was two pieces of material sandwiched together with rubber softened by naphtha. The original intention was to make tarpaulins, but tailors started using the fabric for raincoats. The trouble was when they sewed the fabric it let rain in through the needle holes. Macintosh to save his name from disgruntled raincoat consumers started making coats the right way with waterproofed seams. He added a tartan lining and had a rainproof coat. It was, however, hot, leading George Spill to invent the addition of metal eyelets under the armpits in 1851. The original raincoats were yellow with capes, the kind you still see on public servants during rainstorms.
Charles Macintosh
The Mackintosh raincoat was named after Charles Macintosh, the Scottish chemist. In 1823, Macintosh patented a method for making waterproof garments by using rubber dissolved in coal-tar naphtha for cementing two pieces of cloth together.
While he was trying to find uses for the waste products of gasworks, Macintosh discovered that coal-tar naphtha dissolved india rubber. He took wool cloth and painted one side with the dissolved rubber preparation and placed another layer of wool cloth on top.
This created the first practical waterproof fabric, but the fabric was not perfect. It was easy to puncture when it was seamed, the natural oil in wool caused the rubber cement to deteriorate. In cold weather the fabric became stiffer and in hot weather the fabric became sticky. When vulcanized rubber was invented in 1839, Macintosh's fabrics improved since the new rubber could withstand temperature changes.
Poncho A 1717 Spanish word (perhaps a variant of "pocho", meaning "faded, or "discolored"). It’s a blanket with a slit in the middle so that it can be slipped over the head and worn as a sleeveless garment or a waterproof garment resembling a poncho and having an integral hood.
Rain Cape – cape with slits for arms of water repellent fabric or vinyl
Siphonia – A long weatherproof overcoat worn in the 1850’s and 1860’s. Also came in a "pocket siphonia" which was short and thin enough to be rolled up and carried in case of rain. Also called a "fold-up" today a lightweight raincoat frequently of clear vinyl, which folds to pocket size.
Slicker – bright yellow oilskin or rubberized fabric usually fastened with clips. Originally worn by sailors