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THE BASICS

No rocket science here. Just a little physics and some introductory optics.

There are only a few basic things you need to know about getting dressed to look your best. The main thing is that you should look like you got dressed without having to consult a web guide; you want people to think that looking as good as you do was effortless and easy. Follow the steps here, and soon you won't need any steps to follow at all.

The basic basics.

Here's the handful of things to keep in mind:

Yipes! Stripes!

Some stripes make you bigger,
some stripes make you small


One bad choice can be a whole pattern of misbehavior.

Most of us know that wide horizontal stripes make the eye move left to right thus creating a broadening effect, and vertical stripes coax the eyes up and down helping to establish a thinner look.

Maybe that's why the necktie, that glorious vertical stripe of fabric hangs (pun!) in there!

Large designs like plaids, focus on girth not length, whereas small patterns or no patterns underscore thinness.
 

Walk like a man.
Stand like a supermodel

A super models tip:

Stand and deliver!

Next time you're the subject of a photo op, pretend there is a clock at your feet.

Right foot goes at twelve and left foot at ten, then angle your body to the left to give the person you're talking to (or the paparazzi) a better, slimmer view.

It also makes for a better photo if you push your shoulders back, keep your eyes wide open (smiling tends to close your eyes), and lower your chin (unless you have a double chin, then raise it slightly)!


 


Speak Body Language.

Your mom was right!  One of the most memorable things she ever said: "Stand up straight, young man." Why did she say that? Because she knew that good posture will take five or 10 pounds off you with no sweat.

So chest out, stomach in, posture straight, walk into that job interview, sales presentation or singles bar with confidence -- and walk tall!

bulletDon't be a slouch!   Whether you are standing or sitting, slouching can suggest that you are intimidated, that you lack confidence or that you're uninterested in what others have to say. Swaying or bouncing your foot says that you are nervous.
 
bulletKeep your head up.  If you walk with your head down it lets other people be more important than you. Look at where you're going.
 
bullet Make eye contact.   Don’t stare, but look the other person (persons) in the eye 40 to 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide.   When you are in a meeting, it's okay to look laterally side to side, which appears intellectual or powerful, but don't look up or down. It makes you look as if you've lost your confidence
 
bullet Smile, but "over smiling" gives the impression of weakness.  A good smile says you are confident, authoritative and friendly. A real smile lasts three or four seconds; anything longer appears frozen or phony.
bullet Hands. 
The first place nervous energy shows is in your hands. Don't jingle your change, play with your ring or fiddle with your tie. Hands clasped in front of you, below your waist gives the impression of insecurity and looks like you don't know what to do with your hands. Just let them hang at your sides, naturally and casually.

To put your hands by your side and do nothing with your hands is powerful body language. Don't hold one arm with the other, don't clasp your hands in front or in back, and don't stick your hands in your pockets (it makes your hind end look twice as wide.)
 
bullet Mirror, Mirror On The Wall.   People are most comfortable with people who are "like" themselves (in dress, mannerisms, thoughts, etc.).   Mirror: Try to "mirror" the other person’s body position and mannerisms such as speech speed, (to a certain degree).
 
bullet Voice pitch. Keep your pitch low. There are more men on radio, because people respond better to lower pitched voices. Don't end a sentence with a high note, in the interrogative question tone. Instead phrase questions assertively; for example say "I'd like to know when I can meet with you," as opposed to "when can I meet with you?"
 
bullet On the phone.   Look into a mirror when you are talking on the phone. Ask yourself, would you want to talk to the person you see in the mirror? A smile can be heard over the phone, for example.
 
bullet Don't start by apologizing.   Some people start to speak by apologizing, or preface a statement with, “forgive me for saying this”.   Many of us do it because we learned it from our mothers, and think it’s polite.


A note about FABRIC WEIGHT:

Heavier fabrics give the impression of a heavier body. (Tweed, flannel, bulky sweaters).

Light to medium weight fabrics visually remove pounds. (cotton, twill, linen).

A Quick Application of our new Basic Knowledge:
Most of this is also covered under what to wear for specific body types.

To Look Taller and Thinner:

bulletWear clothes that fit well (too tight or too loose clothes add pounds).
bulletWear solid colors, preferably in the same color range, from head to toe.
bulletAvoid stiff fabrics and nubby textures.
bulletWear darker tones in smooth fabrics with flat finishes.
bulletLimit stripes to very fine, subdued, and close-together versions.
bulletWear trousers at the natural waist (never below).
bulletWear suspenders with button loops, never clips.
bulletAvoid too many accessories.
bulletBe sure your tie touches the waistband and that it is medium in width.
bulletAvoid busy patterns.
bullet Wear vertical stripes.
bullet Avoid elastic bottoms on sweaters, and jackets, which can cause the material to bunch up at the waist and make you look heavier.

To Look Shorter and/or Heavier

bulletWear contrasting colors in mix-and-match separates.
bulletWear bolder colors as accents.
bulletWear patch pockets or styling details.
bulletWear layers.
bullet Elastic bottoms on sweaters, and jackets can cause the material to bunch up at the waist and make you look heavier.
bulletWear spread-color shirts and slightly wider ties, with Windsor knots.
bulletWear thin-soled, trim-looking shoes.
bulletSelect a top coat in a huskier fabric. It can be full or belted and should fall below the knee.
bulletWear trousers with deep pleats, cuffs, and full legs.
bulletLimit using the same color from head to toe.
bulletLimit the use of narrow vertical stripes, very narrow ties, and pointed lapels.

There. Now that you've got the hard stuff down, here's a whole rack of other stuff a guy ought to know about his clothes:

Body types: Your body type can be more important in finding the right clothes than your taste.

What colors say:  Need to make a statement? Let your hues cry.

How women see colors: To every man, there is a season.

How men see colors:  Who says clothes have to be complicated?

Color Coordination:  A prime coat of color knowledge.

Coordination:  Putting it all together - Pattern, Color, Fabric Weight and Texture

-- Andy Gilchrist

 

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Andy's
The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes


Andy's Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes contains complete information on every article of men's clothing:

Forty-Nine chapters
on what to look for in quality features, tips on fit, fabric, styles, how to look your best, and garment history.  
PLUS there are chapters on fabrics, clothing care, foreign size conversions and grooming.

This Encyclopedia software on CD-Rom is in easy to use HTML format so that you can instantly access any section of the book.  
It's a reference for classic clothing  that you will use constantly and will be a benefit to you for a long, long time.
 



Treat yourself! 
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Here is a recent testimonial about THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF MEN'S CLOTHES:

"I received The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes this afternoon, Andy, and it's terrifically useful! Thank you for explaining how to access the various disk components--your instructions helped me to quickly navigate the book.

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