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The Simple version of
COLOR THEORY & MATCHING

Choosing colors that go well together is an art and a science.  They even have University Degrees in Color Theory.  We’re going to try to make it easy for you to know which colors look good together and also look best on you.

Review this and for more details go to Color Coordination  and Color Reality

First, a little color science won’t hurt!  Color is a visual effect resulting from the eye's ability to distinguish the different wavelengths or frequencies of light. The apparent color of an object depends on the wavelength of the light that it reflects.

Some Guiding Principles to Harmonizing Colors:

Our goal when we put the various elements of clothes together is to produce harmony.  Harmony is something that is pleasing to the eye. It engages the viewer and it creates an inner sense of order, a balance in the visual experience. When something is not harmonious, it's either boring or chaotic.

If an outfit is boring, such as a monochromatic outfit with all the same texture, the human brain will reject the look as under-stimulating and just find it uninteresting.  At the other extreme the human brain rejects what it cannot organize, or understand, like conflicting patterns and colors in an outfit.   If it is a visual experience that is so chaotic, the viewer can't stand to look at it (movie costumers often have characters they want to depict as weird, wearing two discordant patterns).

The Color Spectrum or Wheel:

All color theory is based on this wheel. 

There are three primary colors:  red, yellow and blue. These are the only colors that can’t be made by adding any other colors together.  You can’t add two other colors to make red.  But, you can combine two or more of the primary colors to make all the other colors.

To describe a color with reasonable accuracy, there are three basic properties used to identify the qualities of color:

1.  Hue - the name of a color

2.  Value - the degree of lightness or darkness in a color; can be expressed by tones, tints and shades

3.  Intensity - the degree of purity or strength of a color (hue) or how bright or muted the colors are. For example, an intense red is one that is a very strong, pure red color.   When a lighter or darker color is added to a color, the intensity will be less bright. (If you add white to red you get pink, a less intense color strength)

 

A visual presentation of those color terms:

 

HUE The pure color (for example RED)

TONE Hue + small amount of gray or opposite color (will mute or tone down the color)

TINT Hue + White (will lighten the color)

COMPLEMENT TINT Tint + small amount of gray or opposite color (will mute or tone down the color)

SHADE
Hue + Black (will darken the color)

 

To use the color wheel and the chart below we need to know these definitions:
 

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Core Color:  The dominant color in a color scheme.  It’s the color of the principal item in your outfit like your suit or a dress shirt. 

 

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Accent Colors:  The second and sometimes third colors used in a color scheme.  The accent colors may be complementary, triad, analogous or neutral.

Complementary colors:  Colors directly opposite each other in the color spectrum or wheel.  Blue is opposite of orange on the color wheel.  That is why gold, rust and brown compliment shades of blue.  Here’s an example of an outfit:  navy trousers (blue) with a rust dress shirt (orange).

 


 

Triad colors:  Three hues equally spaced on the color wheel.  When you want a combination that is colorful and yet balanced, a triad color scheme might be the way to go.   The first or primary triad colors in the color wheel are red, blue and yellow.  Here’s an example of an outfit: a navy suit (blue), pale yellow shirt (yellow) and burgundy tie (red).

 

Analogous colors: Colors, which are next to each other on the color wheel, go well together, such as blue pants, a blue-green shirt and a green jacket.



 

Neutral colors: Neutral colors include beige, ivory, taupe, black, gray, and white and sometimes brown.  Neutral usually means without color, and these colors don't usually show up on the color wheel.

Some examples of how to put this to use to coordinate your wardrobes:

CORE COLOR

ACCENT COLORS

Complementary Triad Analogous Neutral
white (neutral) all colors

 

(same for all colors)

 white, black, gray, tan

black (neutral) all colors
gray (neutral) darker or lighter gray, red, blue, yellow, green
tan (neutral) blue, violet, orange, green
brown (neutral) blue, green, orange, yellow
blue orange yellow, red blue, green, violet
red green blue, yellow violet, orange
yellow violet red, blue orange, green
purple yellow orange, green blue, red
orange blue green, violet yellow, red
green red violet, orange blue, yellow

Putting the Core color and Accent color chart to specific practice:

Keep in mind the colors are derived from either moving outward on the color wheel (shading) or moving inward on the color wheel (tinting).  These are colors that traditionally go well together, but remember this is only a guide. 

Coat Color Shirt

 
Tie

 

Trousers for Sportcoats* Belt/Shoes

navy

white, blue, yellow, pink blue,  gold, yellow, burgundy, red, purple gray, tan black, brown, cordovan
gray white, gray, yellow, pink, lavender, blue black, white, gray, green,  blue-green, burgundy, navy, any primary or pastel colors gray, black, navy black, brown, cordovan
brown white, ecru, blue, yellow tan, black, brown, rust, orange, red, gold, yellow, green, burgundy tan, gray,
a different shade of brown
Brown, cordovan
tan blue, ecru, white tan, brown, rust, orange, red, navy black, navy, gray, brown, darker tan black, brown, cordovan
olive white, ecru, gray, pale yellow, pale blue burgundy, rust, green, tan, yellow gray, tan, navy, brown brown, cordovan

black

white, light gray, yellow, blue black, white, grey, blue, olive, burgundy, any primary
or pastel colors
gray, tan black

 

*Tip for matching trousers to sportcoats:  The bone buttons of a sport jacket have a range of colors.  You can choose trousers that match any of the colors of the buttons and they will go perfectly.

Caution:  You must pay attention to tone (adding gray), tint (adding white) and shade (adding black) of a hue (pure color).  Green and red are complementary colors, but if you match pure green and red you’ll look very holiday like, which is fine for December.  But burgundy and hunter green are quite stunning together. 

Some additional considerations:

Seasonal Colors: Some colors are more appropriate at certain times of year than others.  Like the pastels of yellow, are usually associated with summer, while autumn colors are rust, brown, green, and burgundy.  Wearing rust in the summer, or light yellow in the fall looks out of place.

Think Contrast:  Try one light element with two dark, or one dark with two lights, such as a charcoal suit, white shirt and red tie, or tan suit with yellow shirt and green tie. Or khaki pants and a dark blue shirt.

Color Value: Dark colors recede thus making you look thinner, and light colors project, which tends to bulk you up.  Dark colors are more formal than light colors.

Warm and Cool Colors: 

Families of analogous colors include warm colors (red, orange, yellow) and cool colors (green, blue, violet). Designers often build color schemes around two or three related colors.

Select two warm colors with one cool or two cool with one warm to create dynamic harmony.  Examples:  navy suit, light blue shirt and red tie, or a yellow shirt, rust jacket and blue jeans.

Monochromatic: all one color, but different shades, tones or tints. All blue attire could consist of a navy suit, light blue shirt, dark blue tie, blue pocket square, etc.  Add some contrast to this combination by using texture and pattern.  Some of your clothing items should be smooth; others rough in texture.  Some items could be patterned; others solid.

Neutral: We talked about neutral colors, but you can dress in shades of white, black, gray or beige.  Khaki pants, a white shirt, and a gray dress shirt are all neutrals.  It may not be a dynamic look, but it is sophisticated. 

Seasonal Colors: Some colors are more appropriate at certain times of year than others.  Like the pastels of yellow, are usually associated with summer, while autumn colors are rust, brown, green, and burgundy.  Wearing rust in the summer, or light yellow in the fall looks out of place.

Color Value: Dark colors recede thus making you look thinner, and light colors project, which tends to bulk you up.  Dark colors are more formal than light.

What colors look best on you? 

Here’s a simplified way of deterring colors.

Remember, however, there are certain colors that are acceptable for business and many that are not.  An ideal ensemble for a job interview would be a navy suit, white shirt and a burgundy necktie.

If you, from the information below looks great in fuchsia, please don’t wear a fuchsia suit!

Your skin tone is the most important factor in determining the colors that look best on you.

With the help of the list below, decide which season most accurately describes you complexion. Once you know your season, you will have a personalized guideline of colors and shades that work best for you!
 

WINTER

Best Colors

Worst Colors

"Winter" is a cool tone. People with winter complexions have blue or pink/rosy undertones.

Skin can be pale white, yellowish-olive, or dark. 

Those with the Winter color profile have a lot of depth to their coloring and a lot of contrast between their hair color, eye color and skin tone.

Winter people have brown hair, with deeply colored eyes. Many Asians and African Americans fall into this category.

People with white-blond hair may also be winters

Winters should wear colors that are sharp, stark and clear.

 

They look best in intense, rich colors, like white, black, navy blue, red, and hot pink.

 

For lighter colors, wear bright white or icy pastels, such as cool blues, pinks and yellows.

 

 

 

 

 

Winters should avoid dressing in earth tones and subdued colors like pastels, and beige, orange and gold.

 

 

SUMMER

Best Colors

Worst Colors

"Summer" is also a cool tone and like winter

complexions, have blue or pink undertones.

Skin is pale and pink.

Summers have a low level of contrast between their hair, eye color and skin tone.

Summers often have blonds or brown hair with pale eyes.

If you’re a trying to discriminate between winter and summer, winters are usually have brown hair and summers are mostly natural blonds.

 

Summers should choose soft neutrals and pastels, as well as muted colors with cool undertones.

 

Powder blue, dusty pink, mauve, rose-brown, lavender, plum, and pale yellow are all good color choices.

 

Summers should avoid intense, vivid hues because they will look harsh. Nor should Summers wear earth tones, black or orange.

 

 

AUTUMN

Best Colors

Worst Colors

Autumn is a warm tone and people with this complexion have golden undertones in their skin, like a pale peach, golden beige or golden brown.

Many have brown or red hair, and golden brown

However, golden blond and black hair coloring can also fall into this range.

Autumns have a lot of depth to their coloring and skin tone. Rich golden, spicy, and earthy colors will accent their complexion.

 

Autumns should select

both muted and rich warm colors that are seen in autumn leaves and spice colors, such as camel, beige, olive, orange, gold, warm grays, and dark brown.

 

 



 

Autumns should  avoid clear, bright colors and black and white, which will make them look tired and faded.

 

They should also avoid pastels and blue tones, which look cold against Autumns complexion and give a pale appearance.



 

 

SPRING

Best Colors

Worst Colors

Spring is also a warm tone. Spring complexions have golden undertones and are usually creamy white or peach.

Springs have extremely light, ivory skin color.

People of this coloring are usually natural golden blonds, auburn, or have strawberry blond red hair.

Springs also have very clear, light blue and green colored eyes. Freckles and rosy cheeks are also characteristics of this group.

If you can’t decide weather a client is an autumn or a spring, remember springs tend to have pale eyes while autumns have dark eyes.

Springs can wear very pale, soft colors, such as peach, camel, golden yellow, golden brown, and aqua. They will also look good in ivory, bright greens, true reds, clear blues and coral.

 

 

Springs should avoid black and white, which are too contrasting.

 

They should also stay away from dark, dull colors.

Have a color's name or want to know what color a product really is with a certain color name? 
Click on NAME THAT COLOR

 

_______________________________________________
Andy's
The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes


Andy's Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes contains complete information on every article of men's clothing:

Forty-Nine chapters
on what to look for in quality features, tips on fit, fabric, styles, how to look your best, and garment history.  
PLUS there are chapters on fabrics, clothing care, foreign size conversions and grooming.

This Encyclopedia software on CD-Rom is in easy to use HTML format so that you can instantly access any section of the book.  
It's a reference for classic clothing  that you will use constantly and will be a benefit to you for a long, long time.
 



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